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  1. #1
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    Any Cateye CS1000 trainer experts out there?

    Our track team has a *fleet* of about 20 Cateye CS1000 Cyclosimulators (aka the Psycho-Stimulator). They all seem to have their own issues. I'd like to restore as many of them, if possible, to their original functionality.

    I've downloaded the manual. Looks as though spare parts are few and far between. Also, FWIW, I consider myself to have better than average mechanical skills and any tools that may be required.

    So, does anybody out there have any maintenance/repair experience with these?

    First issue to address is a flaky %grade display - does not step through 1 -10% - just displays 4%, 3%, 3%, then 4%.

    Any suggestion as to where to start in the troubleshooting process?

    Also, any recommended PM procedures, generally speaking?

    Just looking to cut some time off of the learning curve - any help greatly appreciated!

    Mike

  2. #2
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    xengravity - I got your PM but the system won't let me respond with a PM (I have less the 50 postings). So, to answer your question, we are also looking for those small plastic inserts that engage the skewers - not a single one has survived!

  3. #3
    Elitist carleton's Avatar
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    I used one for a few years then gave it to a good friend.

    - I would totally disregard the power readings on the display. I had a track bike with an SRM attached, and the numbers rarely coincided (300W on my SRM head unit wasn't 300W on the Cateye display). I never turned the unit on.
    - If you do use the numbers, use them as relative measures for each individual machine. This is because the resistance is made by the cable adjusting how close the Eddy Current Resistance Unit thingy was to the other thingy (scientific term). Anyway, 1 cable could be a bit more stretched than the other. The lever is indexed, so if it's not calibrated, then it could be off. Think of an uncalibrated rear derailleur.
    - If you want numbers maybe try the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine. They have published a power band that is directly related to the speed you turn the trainer. Basically Xmph = Ypower. They even sell a speedometer that displays power.
    - I would remove the wind resistance unit (the fan blades). It just makes a lot of noise and doesn't really provide much resistance. Maybe it cools the other side, but I don't think so. Mine worked fine after I removed mine.
    - I would only use them for Sprint type efforts (standing starts, short efforts with negative splits (flip the lever for more resistance), etc...). For longer efforts a normal fluid trainer would be better, especially when using a road bike that way you can dial in the right cadence and torque combination.
    - Sprinters love the fact that the resistance unit is so strong and the fork stand is so steady. I haven't seen a modern mag trainer that can provide nearly as much resistance. I'm talking: It can handle over 2,000w. Most other commercial fluid or mag trainers can't handle much over 1,000w.
    - If you use a road bike on it, it will feel awful with the really light flywheel and the linear, notched resistance. It doesn't feel natural in any way.
    - Cateye probably doesn't have much stock of replacement parts...if any.
    - You can engage track nuts without using the plastic inserts. I didn't have any on mine.



    Sprinters would buy them from you.

    I would't bother scavenging parts from other machines to make a 100% perfect machine. If the resistance unit works and the copper disk isn't warped, it's useful.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by carleton View Post
    I used one for a few years then gave it to a good friend.

    - I would totally disregard the power readings on the display. I had a track bike with an SRM attached, and the numbers rarely coincided (300W on my SRM head unit wasn't 300W on the Cateye display). I never turned the unit on.

    Agreed - one of my teammates has an SRM on her Dolan. Looks like the Cateye is optimistic to the tune of 100 - 150W at a full load of approx. 1200W.

    - If you do use the numbers, use them as relative measures for each individual machine. This is because the resistance is made by the cable adjusting how close the Eddy Current Resistance Unit thingy was to the other thingy (scientific term). Anyway, 1 cable could be a bit more stretched than the other. The lever is indexed, so if it's not calibrated, then it could be off. Think of an uncalibrated rear derailleur.

    Thanks - sounds like at least checking the copper disc for runout and proper clearance would be worth the time.

    - If you want numbers maybe try the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine. They have published a power band that is directly related to the speed you turn the trainer. Basically Xmph = Ypower. They even sell a speedometer that displays power.

    Our team actually took delivery of a Wattbike about three weeks ago. Everybody sorta is getting a feel for it right now but it should be a good source of reliable data. Unfortunately, we only have one, so seat time for every team member is limited.

    - I would only use them for Sprint type efforts (standing starts, short efforts with negative splits (flip the lever for more resistance), etc...). For longer efforts a normal fluid trainer would be better, especially when using a road bike that way you can dial in the right cadence and torque combination.

    Our training on these is virtually all sprint efforts, so we're good-to-go in that respect.

    - Sprinters love the fact that the resistance unit is so strong and the fork stand is so steady. I haven't seen a modern mag trainer that can provide nearly as much resistance. I'm talking: It can handle over 2,000w. Most other commercial fluid or mag trainers can't handle much over 1,000w.

    Yes, if Sir Chris Hoy can't break one, I'm not sure anybody can

    - You can engage track nuts without using the plastic inserts. I didn't have any on mine.

    Yes!

    I would't bother scavenging parts from other machines to make a 100% perfect machine. If the resistance unit works and the copper disk isn't warped, it's useful.

    Duly noted!
    Thanks again, carleton, for your input - greatly appreciated!

    Mike

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey58 View Post
    Our track team has a *fleet* of about 20 Cateye CS1000 Cyclosimulators (aka the Psycho-Stimulator). They all seem to have their own issues. I'd like to restore as many of them, if possible, to their original functionality.

    I've downloaded the manual. Looks as though spare parts are few and far between. Also, FWIW, I consider myself to have better than average mechanical skills and any tools that may be required.

    So, does anybody out there have any maintenance/repair experience with these?

    First issue to address is a flaky %grade display - does not step through 1 -10% - just displays 4%, 3%, 3%, then 4%.

    Any suggestion as to where to start in the troubleshooting process?

    Also, any recommended PM procedures, generally speaking?

    Just looking to cut some time off of the learning curve - any help greatly appreciated!

    Mike
    I can help walk you through fixing the grade % on the displays. If you're still interested, just email me at jcalabrasi@gmail.com
    Last edited by JMCX; 04-17-14 at 07:56 AM.

  6. #6
    Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMCX View Post
    I can help walk you through fixing the grade % on the displays. If you're still interested, just email me at jcalabrasi@gmail.com
    Email sent, thanks!

    Mike

  7. #7
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    Gidday, does anyone know- does the ring that passes through the slot of the speed sensor pickup need to be "complete" for the sensor to pick up the signal? My speedo and therefore distance functions have stopped registering and it appears the ringwhich has slots cut in it (i guess it is an optical sensor rather than a magnetic one) has bits missing off it but i didnt see any bits lying anywhere, cant figure out how it may have got damaged.
    Any advice greatly appreciated.

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