sickz

let's assume:

-you own a top tier frame and wheels. both are aluminum
-1k to spend on new/used wheels or frame
-no other big purchases are allowed during the season
-competing in mass start events


what would give you the best bang for your buck? let's hear some good opinions!

wens

If your wheels are aluminum, they're not top tier for racing. Entire thread is based on a flawed initial condition.

Quinn8it

If the frame fits the answer is almost always Wheels

Hida Yanra

What's your definition of "top tier" frame and fork?
What level are you racing at (also, country)?
What are your goals within racing?

What is your race schedule?
Does it include travel?
Could the money be spent on something other than frame or wheels? (coaching/gears/track time/et al)

So - until we know that stuff, there's no answer that is going to be even somewhat accurate.

sickz

u guys are tough =(

there's so many variables it's hard to give you as situation where you'll choose wheels or frame.... that was my initial idea. yes i know top tier implies it's not aluminum. this isn't a personal recommendation for me, and what i want. i'm curious where you guys would opt to spend your money if forced to certain confines.

basically, where would you get the best bang for the buck without delving into other options such as: training, fitment, steroids, prostitutes, etc. i wanna hear wheel or frame choices, that's all =D


thus we'll use middle tier stuff. dolan track champ, pinarello alum pista, look 464, etc. paired to spoked alum wheels.

gtrob

Agreed. Unless you are on a very old steel frame, a $1000 upgrade is going to be basically unnoticeable unless you are changing geometry.

When I put my Zipps on (808/disc) with the EVO CS tires, they FEEL faster, lighter, tighter, than my every day wheels (which are still carbon, deep dish, nice hubs, but much heavier). And that combo can be had for $1000 used.

$1000 could be a solid season of tires alone depending where/how you ride.

gl98115

I'd get a chain with skullz on it. SKULLZ are SICK!!!!!!!!

Quinn8it

If Bang means- "might actually make you faster"
Then..
Best bang for buck under $1K:
buy a set of 88mm tubular wheels off EBay- ($500'ish)
buy a set of mid-range Tires... Something in the Sonderklasse or Evo Crono range- fast but not as delicate as a true top tier like an Evo Pista..($200'ish)

save the other $300 for the second set of tires...

wens

I like that answer because it validates what I did this past year. Team deal on planet x 88 tubulars, and two pairs of sonderklasse tires. But honestly the problem with that question is that the biggest items to make me faster now are an aero position fit and coaching.

Also, anyone who puts any effort into it can get a deep front tubular carbon wheel for under 500, aluminum wheels are inherently lower tier.

Hida Yanra

Well then- you should have just asked that question - when you say "you", that's what made this tricky.
Wheels or frame - well, enough alum frames have won stars and stripes jerseys that I wouldn't worry about it too much. As long as you have a decent frame, you will be fine at the world cup level for mass-start racing.
Wheels/Tyres - yeah, that's about the only variable, innit? They sure do help when the speed is above 30 - I've done it with and without... much prefer with
Chains/bars/saddles/pedals... it either works or it doesn't - not many gains to be found there.

See, for ME the answer would be to make the drive to the Burnaby Velodrome 13 times (that's what 1K would get me, I've done the drives and done the math) during the winter for double days of racing followed by motorpacing- that's what'd make me the fastest.

If you want to know where to spend money specifically on equipment, for just the most average user with no specificity at all, well, put a disc on the rear of the bike and a good wheel on the front, put good tires on them, that's 1K.

For max-bang-for-buck - no spending restrictions - for the average racer who truly wants to get fast and is willing to put work in, get a good track coach.
(specificity and targeting what you might not know)

For max-bang-for-buck - no spending restrictions - for the fast (1/2) racer who truly wants to get fast and is willing to put work in, maybe pay for travel to big events.
(the motivation of knowing there that Zac K & Bobby Lea are in their near future will do wonders)

For max-bang-for-buck - no spending restrictions - for the elite racer who wants to make the next step, help chip in for the basement couch they are squatting on, and supplement their foodstamps.
(just chatted with a friend today who could really use $100, absolutely doesn't have it - but lord almighty is she fast)

carleton

Frame are very low on the aero cost/benefit scale.

Things that are very high on the cost/benefit scale for track racing:

- Aero booties
- Aero helmet (for time trials)
- Skinsuit
- Aero front wheel
- Annual pass to your local velodrome
- A basic bike fit
- Group skills classes and clinics
- A road bike (especially if you are focusing on endurance)
- A gym membership (if you are focusing on sprinting)
- A complete kit of chainrings/cogs
- Aero bars
- Narrow handlebars (40cm or less)
- A diet
- A home trainer for working out when you can't leave the house (weather, kids, time, etc...)
- Coaching

All of those are less than $1000 and are proven to make you faster than a new frame...even a LOOK 496 or British Superbike.

Only replace the frame if:
- You've done all of the above
- The frame doesn't fit
- The frame is unsafe
- The geometry is wonky

Hida Yanra

sticky that please.

carleton

Maybe I got high low "cost/benefit" mixed up...but you guys know what I mean.

sickz

reminds me of the moto version of "which upgrade should i get?" the entire forum would suggest a track day or paid instruction. heh.

enjoyed reading the material answers though .... (and the non material =D ).

i've never ridden on tubulars... but have been tempted lately w/ a profil 18 laced to a mavic 500 i found by an apt dumpster last week.