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Old 10-31-12, 04:09 PM   #1
sstang13
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Indoor trainer + climbing block?

I don't mean to start another trainer thread, I know there is already enough of those, but I was wondering as I will be getting an indoor trainer this winter, is the climbing block a good choice? Does it actually work/help you or is it just a waste of money? Thanks.
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Old 10-31-12, 04:24 PM   #2
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This works just as well.

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Old 10-31-12, 04:35 PM   #3
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So your saying instead of a 'climbing' block, I should invest in a 'cinder' block? I don't know if that fits under by budget :/
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Old 10-31-12, 04:42 PM   #4
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You could always try a couple of telephone books. It's not going to make a big difference one way or the other. It changes your position on the bike a little but it has no effect on the power you are putting out. Try the trainer without it for a while and try a ride with a few books under the wheel for another.

I don't really see the point and just level the bike for all indoor riding.
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Old 10-31-12, 05:10 PM   #5
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I find a chunk of 2x4 is perfect for levelling. I agree, I don't see much point in inclining it... just up the resistance if you want to simulate a hill.
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Old 10-31-12, 05:29 PM   #6
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That is true, telephone books aren't used for much else anyway right? And that's what I was wondering, if inclining on a trainer actually simulates climbing at all or not, guess not. It would've been nice to because theres not to many hills around my area, whereas you guys are near the rockies . I went to Comox on the Island once, and visited Whistler and Vancouver, all I can say is WOW. Mt. Washington had to have been my favourite, first time mountain biking downhill, crashed twice including hitting a jump not realizing it and my nads payed for it.. funnest thing I've ever done to date! Anyway, thanks guys.
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Old 10-31-12, 05:48 PM   #7
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Being a roller guy, I've never tried it, but I've knocked up a light wood riser to level my wife's bike on her trainer. To simulate a 10% grade, say you have a 40" wheelbase, that would add 4" to the riser. That will change your position by putting your CG further behind the bottom bracket and taking weight of your hands. I suppose that could slightly change muscular usage or range of motion, just like any change in fit. Certainly not a large change but no harm in trying it. You need two short pieces of 2X6 or 2X8, a little square of 1/2" ply, and 4 nails.
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Old 10-31-12, 05:57 PM   #8
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Sound like a smart guy, I'll try that. Is there any big difference in rollers vs. trainer aside from like rollers helping your pedaling motion out more and simulating a real road more then a trainer?
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Old 10-31-12, 09:08 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by sstang13 View Post
Sound like a smart guy, I'll try that. Is there any big difference in rollers vs. trainer aside from like rollers helping your pedaling motion out more and simulating a real road more then a trainer?
IMO the difference is about what you say. Although I find rollers a lot less boring. If you don't pay total attention every minute, you're off and probably collect another pedal scar on your ankle. So there's that "gee-whiz this takes skill" kind of attitude that comes with rollers. I wouldn't have them without resistance, though. Too limiting to workout variety.
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Old 11-01-12, 12:01 PM   #10
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I think there is a benefit to a climbing block just in that it changes your center of gravity. But it's also true that to simulate the power requirement, you'll have to big ring it and really mash as you would up a hill.
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Old 11-01-12, 03:10 PM   #11
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@carbonfiberboy - Ya I find that when I am on a stationary bike (I've been on a trainer once and spin class in school sometimes) I always feeling like sitting up. Maybe this is a bad idea as I won't be riding without hands on the bars at all. But still I'm sure my pedaling shouldnt suffer to much. It would suck also as there is a good friday road race that I would love to attend and it is in April, very early in the season.

@caloso - That is true, although, I don't mash when going up hills. In my first race there were a bunch of little tiny hills, like not large enough to even call a speedbump compared to 'actual' hills. Anyway, on those ones everyone would get out of the sattle and mash for 5-10 seconds to get over it. But on training rides and by myself, I usually keep a high cadence. Always in my small ring.
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Old 11-02-12, 04:39 PM   #12
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I have a new cycleOps trainer and find it very difficult to stand while pedaling even when I use the big ring. Should I readjust the wheel against the trainer, or is there something else I am missing? I am using one climbing block.
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Old 11-02-12, 04:42 PM   #13
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I used to use this one with my trainer - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o04_s00_i01
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Old 11-02-12, 04:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stomper View Post
I have a new cycleOps trainer and find it very difficult to stand while pedaling even when I use the big ring. Should I readjust the wheel against the trainer, or is there something else I am missing? I am using one climbing block.
Difficult in what way? Does it move side to side to much?
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Old 11-06-12, 09:28 PM   #15
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The ride is not smooth when I use the big crank (extremely choppy, can't get a cadence going - nothing like a spin bike). When I use the small crank, I can't stand. The lbs told me to adjust the bicycle wheel so that it just touches the fly wheel. Am I doing something wrong? I am using two Cycleops risers which makes seated pedaling quite easy.
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Old 11-07-12, 09:00 AM   #16
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I don't think you should be standing in the small gear anyway? I only do this when going up a climb, but climbs can't be simulated on a trainer. When I switch to my big ring, I feel a lot of that unsmooth choppiness, it's almost like half of the fly wheel is slippery and the other half sticky. I'm not sure how to fix this though, try what your lbs said.
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Old 11-07-12, 11:13 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stomper View Post
The ride is not smooth when I use the big crank (extremely choppy, can't get a cadence going - nothing like a spin bike). When I use the small crank, I can't stand. The lbs told me to adjust the bicycle wheel so that it just touches the fly wheel. Am I doing something wrong? I am using two Cycleops risers which makes seated pedaling quite easy.
Something doesn't sound right. I have a KK trainer and there are no issues with 'choppiness'.

What exactly do you mean by choppy? Does it happen in every gear when on the big ring or just the smaller gears on the cassette? If you are able to ride the trainer with a 39-14 gear it should feel identical to 53-19 on the big ring.
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Old 11-07-12, 09:00 PM   #18
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I believe I have identified the problem. The flywheel works perfectly well when I am seated, but when I stand and pedal the flywheel slips intermittently due to the additional weight. I increased the degree of contact between the fly wheel and the wheel and it seems to be working better when I stand, although I'll know more when I ride again this weekend. I have changed the gears to optimize pedaling when I am seated. Thank you for helping me think through this situation.
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Old 11-08-12, 03:59 AM   #19
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If it is slipping, you need more tension on the roller / tire.
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Old 11-09-12, 12:26 AM   #20
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Thanks for this thread. I just bought a trainer and was going to ask about a block too.
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Old 11-09-12, 12:36 AM   #21
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I like the KK climbing block myself. Not so much to elevate the front of the bike, but to keep the front forks/wheel stabile when I am hammering really hard.

Top keep the wheel from slipping on the roller it generally takes a couple turns on the adjuster after the wheel contacts the roller. Jerk the rear wheel back and forth before you ride.... if it slips much tighten the tension until the slipping is nearly zero. A little squeak is okay in most cases but YMMV.

Last edited by billydonn; 11-09-12 at 12:41 AM.
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Old 11-09-12, 09:07 AM   #22
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Thanks for this thread. I just bought a trainer and was going to ask about a block too.
Haha no problem, have fun indoors!
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