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  1. #1
    kfb
    kfb is offline
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    Seat adjustments for aerobars ......

    Read a good article on seat settings for a better aero position in the "Triathletes Training Bible".

    It mentions a fore/aft seat adjustment is necessary to get the full benefit of the aero bars. Instead of dropping a plumbbob from the front of your knee and setting the seat so the string intersects the pedal axle, for aero position the plumbbob should be dropped from the knob on the side of your knee instead (head of the Fibula). This brings your seat forward a bit which should improve aerodynamics and comfort.

    I was just curious if any of you that have added aerobars to your road bikes have done this, and if so, has it worked out good?

  2. #2
    I get high on lactic acid ^*^BATMAN^*^'s Avatar
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    You can come forward slightly to beablt to put more power to the pedals in the areo bars, but remember that if you bring it forward you have to either bring your seat up or down(cant remember off the top of my head). Measusre from teh center of your cranks to the top of your saddle, more it forward to were you think will be best, then adjust your seat hight so it is the same distance away from your cranks(this will make it so you legs do about the same rotation.

    Doing this you will have to watch teh angle of your femer to your body, it may be uncomfortable to make to extreeme of an adjustment(flexibilty).
    Road Bike- 2003 Trek 2000(out of service, rear triangle bent, looking for replacment)
    Triathlon/TT- 2003 Cervelo P3(also looking to upgrade to the P3C)
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    Cats don't like riding on a bicycle......no matter how much duct tape you use.

  3. #3
    kfb
    kfb is offline
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    Quote Originally Posted by ^*^BATMAN^*^
    You can come forward slightly to beablt to put more power to the pedals in the areo bars, but remember that if you bring it forward you have to either bring your seat up or down(cant remember off the top of my head). Measusre from teh center of your cranks to the top of your saddle, more it forward to were you think will be best, then adjust your seat hight so it is the same distance away from your cranks(this will make it so you legs do about the same rotation.

    Doing this you will have to watch teh angle of your femer to your body, it may be uncomfortable to make to extreeme of an adjustment(flexibilty).
    The article mentioned that due to the seat post angle, if you move your seat up or down, a fore/aft change is needed, but a fore/aft adjustment only shouldn't require a height change?

    I have some Syntace C2's on order, so hopefully sometime in the next week or two i'll get them installed. I'm sure it will take a few tweaks to get everything just right.

    The one thing i'm not sure of is after making a seat adjustment for better aero positioning, how will that affect my positioning while riding in the hoods?

  4. #4
    I get high on lactic acid ^*^BATMAN^*^'s Avatar
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    Take my info on fitting with a grain of salt. I got proffesionaly fitted for my bikes. I know a little about fitting from a 2 hour crash course. but nothign in depth.
    Road Bike- 2003 Trek 2000(out of service, rear triangle bent, looking for replacment)
    Triathlon/TT- 2003 Cervelo P3(also looking to upgrade to the P3C)
    MTB- 2006 Rocky Mountain Element Team
    Cats don't like riding on a bicycle......no matter how much duct tape you use.

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