Shai

Hello.
I’m going to buy a new bike “Orbea ORDU” bike for Tri racing.
I having a big issue problem a bout the wheels that I’m going to buy.
Should I buy one pair of hi profile wheelset (or even disk sets) for racing and training, or should I buy two pairs one simple wheelset for training and the other one (the hi profile) for racing.
P.S it’s not a many issue just leak of understanding…
Your help is more then welcome. So tank’s a lot in advanced.
Shai

sestivers

Do you have a lot of money (enough to buy a quality set of each type)?

Shai

I think to buy one Zipp 404 wheelset and the other one, a simpale\mid set for training.

and yes, many is not the object !!!

Triguy

If money is no obeject, it depends...

How big are you?
What type of races? (hilly, long, short, strait or with turns)

Definately get a seperate set of training wheels for say $150...
For race wheels I would say disk and the deepest front wheel you can safely handle.

Maybe a Renn Madeira with a Hed Stinger 90 front, or H3C. Or maybe Zipp 999 wheelset. If you're smaller a Renn Madeira with a Hed Stinger 50, or maybe a Zipp 909.

Shai

I'm a 70 kg weight, and I'm going to race Triathlons racing.
I don’t think that we have here "Renn Madeira" Wheels so I'll go for Zipp or Mavic. I quite a afraid of disk wheels (Not that I have ride with).
The problem with two set of wheels, Is that you must have the same edge for the Wheels (Carbon or Metal), because I don’t feel like the replace the brake pads each and every time that I replace the wheels.

Triguy

From what I've heard you're right on the edge of comfort from a deep(50-60mm wheel), to a really deep(80-90) as far as weight goes.

I wouldn't be afraid of discs, I am about 60kg and rode a disc no problem in some real heavy winds.

Well money must be no object if you're looking at Zipp versus Mavic... Because any Zipp wheelset or Mavic wheelset is going to cost well over $1500.

Do you have a preference tubular or clincher??

Personally I've had great success with tubulars, so thats the route I'd go for a race wheel... but if you still want an aluminum braking surface that leaves two good options...

Mavic Cosmis Carbone SL's and Hed Alps

The Heds are way lighter(+200 grams) and don't worry you can order them online.

As far as a disc goes, I would talk to Renn. They're internet only and their silver/white Kaiser would look perfect with the silver highlites of the Alps and the silver of an Ordu, plus it is comparable in weight to any disc.... https://www.rennmultisport.com/~rennm...product=kaiser


If you want an aluminum rimmed clincher though, go for the Zipp, either 606 if you're not comfortable with a disc or 909 if you are.

audiojan

First, don't be afraid of disc's... Renn makes an outstanding product that doesn't cost [that] much, is supported by the best customer service and warranties. I weigh about 63-67kg (depening on in- or out- of season) and disc's really will not push you around unless extremely windy conditions (then just don't use it...).

Get a cheap pair of wheels for training (ex. Shimano WR-540 or something like that), a pair of descent race wheels (keep the rim depth on the front a bit shallower if you are worried about crosswinds) and invest the $500 in a Renn disc.

And yes, I am really, really envious of the Ordu... I have an Orca as my road bike, the wife is riding Orbea Dama Race, and I would kill (well not really, but almost) for an Ordu... You lucky bastard!

merlinextraligh

My setup is Zipp 404's which I ride and train on regularly, and use for road races. Hed disc and Hed trispoke for TT's and triathlons. Works well for me.

Hilly TT, or very windy you can always use the Zipps. Flat course good weather, fastest set up you can have is a disc and a trispoke (or extreme deep dish front wheel).

MHR

Alot depends on your budget, I think it is good to have 2-sets of wheels...one for training and one for racing. Better yet, a lower end bike (to put miles on and to beat-up) and a higher end bike you ride once in a while and to race with. To really take advantage of a Mid - to - higher end wheel set you really need to push them fast...say 21.0 mph and faster for your average speed. In most any situation a disc will be your best option if speed is a concern.


1. Entry - Mid-level wheels: You can go with some Bontrager Race-X lites which is a prety good mid-range road set at about $900.00 with tires and tubes.

2. Solid Mid-level wheels: A Zipp-404 clincher (I have a set of these) will be your best all around set, good for training and good for racing at a cost of just under $1,400. A step up here would be to go to the ZIPP-606's.

3. High end wheels: Faster "race specific sets/Pro level equipment" will be Tubular in construction. Tires alone for these wheels can go for up to $200.00 each, and are more difficult to change. A high-end all around wheel set that can be used in any wind condition is the ZIPP- "Z606's". My newest wheel set however is the ZIPP "Z999's" (this includes a disc for the rear and a deep dish 808 in the Front. This is an awsome set which will set you back about $4,000 - but if it's windy forget about it. But in the right conditions it is the fastest wheel set $$ can buy.
Read more about the "Z-series wheel sets here https://www.zipp.com/tech/zseries.shtml

Triguy

Mid-Entry??? Zipps?

I would realign that outline

Entry Level- Hed Jets, Real Design

Entry-Mid- Hed Alps

Mid Level- Zipp 404 606, Hed 3, Stinger 60/90
Blackwell 100
Mid Upper-Mavic Cosmic Carbone, Zipp 808/909/999

Upper- Reynolds/ Lightweight Obermeyer

Your best bang for buck is between Entry to Entry Mid. You want lightweight without going over $2000 go Zipp. Want superior Aerodunamics, go Mid to Mid upper.

A rating of general fastness

Zipp 999- 10.0
Hed Superlight with Stinger 90 front 9.95
Zipp 909 9.925
Mavic Comete with Mavic Cosmic Carbone 9.9
Hed Superlight with a Stinger 60 or Hed Alps front 9.875
Lightweight Disc with Lightweight front 9.85
Zipp 808- 9.84
Stinger 90s- 9.839
Zipp 606- 9.835
Hed 3s- 9.83495
Hed stinger 90 rear with 60 front - 9.8349
Hed Jet 90s - 9.833
Mavic Cosmic Carbones- 9.8325
Zipp 404 9.83
Hed Alps 9.829
Hed Jet 50s- 9.82


Theres two points here

1st... Money doesn't equal fastest, because Lightweights and Reynolds don't do that well in the windtunnel comparatively.

2nd... Fastest isn't that much faster than 2nd, 3rd or 4th fastest. A Zipp 999 won't offer that much more than a Zipp 808 or a Stinger 90 set but any of these wheels offer a lot more of an advantage of training wheels.

MHR

Mid-Entry??? Zipps?

That was a typo - should have read Mid-Level (now edited)

I also agree - $$ don't = speed
With all things being equal - performing well is more about how your body deals with pain and the given elements of race day. Having first rate equipment does give you piece of mind.... in that you to can focus on "executing your game plan" for the day without having to worry about your equipment. Although, that said ....on any given day anything can happen so expect the unexpected.

zonatandem

Topolinos. Either clincher or sew ups. 1383 grams; alloy rim, carbon hub, carbon/kevlar coated flat spokes; 24 front & 30 rear (18 drive side/12 non-drive side). About $900US

Triguy

topolinos??? talk about out of right field.... to each there own

zakk

i have a pair of wagon wheels for training (Mavic A719's for $220) a pair of all around racing wheels (Zipp 404 clinchers) and a Renn disk.

under $2,000 in wheels that I can match for any race.

mike15401

"It is not a money issue, just a lack of understand", right?

Of course it is not a money issue you are buying an Orbea, congrats!!!
I think for that reason alone you have to get a pair of good wheels! But there are other reasons to have racing wheels as well as training wheels. Racing wheels can be just as expensive as the bike! You wouldn't want to log too many miles on wheels that expensive, so switching between racing and training sounds good right? I can become a hassel, especially if the dishing is different between the two wheels, then you could have a problem shifting from one wheel to the other. What I do is in the off season, I put on a pair of training wheels with the cheapest rubber I can find and then when racing season comes along, I switch to my racing wheels, and I leave them on until racing season is over.