Alexi

are there aerobar brake levers (bar-end brake levers) that clamp on the end of the bar instead of inside the bar?

Alexi

to clear things up a bit, on just bull horns is there a way to run barend shifters and barend brake levers?

Triguy

Yes, tektro makes some, or Nashbar.com has a ouse brand

Sprocket Man

I'm trying to picture this - are you thinking about putting the barend shifter into the end of the bullhorn and the brake lever clamped on the outside of the bar? I think you can do it, but you probably won't be able to route both the brake cables and shift cables internally. In the bars I've seen, there are usually 4 holes - two by the levers and two near the stem clamp. The two holes nearer to the stem clamp are usually only big enough to fit one cable housing a piece and it's not advisable to bore out the holes or drill additional holes as this would weaken the bars.

Sounds like an interesting project. If you decide to do it, post some pictures and let us know how it works for you.

auto208562

You mean like this? This is one of the only aerobar brakes I've seen down cleanly.

https://trizilla.com/triathlon/pc/vie...dproduct=11877

Alexi

Auto208562
well I gues that would work but 95 bucks?

Sproketman,
I could route one or the other internaly the other externaly.

Triguy,
I Checked nashbar didn't find it, I'll try searching tektro

i may just rig something up interupter brake levers

auto208562

I can see why $95 is alot but compared to what people paid for their tri bikes, that's actually little. Also, I'm not that mechanically inclined.

That said, I'd really like to see pictures of what your final project looks like and the steps taken to do it. Good luck.

audiojan

The JTek brakes (that's the manufacturer of them, HED also markets them) are really worth $95... The quality is truly remarkable! Function-wire, the ability to "bleed off" some speed just before a turn, etc. without having to get out of the aerobars is really a major advantage. They are not designed to be an "emergency stop", the braking power is too low for that, but the ability to slow down just a bit, makes at least me a bit more confident when riding tucked in.

sestivers

You may be different from the image I have of most triathletes, but I would not go anywhere near someone with those JTek brakes on his bike. Those levers are just begging a rider to do somthing stupid. Maybe they really do work for some people though.

Which Tektro levers would allow the OP do do what he's asking? My RX 4.1s would not allow the shifter plug to fit. I've done what he's talking about with old-style road bike aero levers (the non-STI version) but they don't work as well as the TT-style levers.

blonduathlongrl

I like that.. I dont know how many times I had to put on my break quickly and thought that the split second it took me to get out of earo position and reach my break was a very close call in making in or not.

Dan0930

[QUOTE=sestivers]You may be different from the image I have of most triathletes, but I would not go anywhere near someone with those JTek brakes on his bike. Those levers are just begging a rider to do somthing stupid. Maybe they really do work for some people though.
QUOTE]

Ekimov was rockin the jtek system on his bike..

LBonney

Hey, is that the same system I've seen CSC using on their Cervelo P3's , it looks sweet.

merlinextraligh

as I read the clarification, the OP wants to put both the brake levers and the shifters on the bull horns. From an aerodynamic point of view that would appear to be counter productive. Everytime you wanted to shift you would have to go to the bullhorns. If you had to get out of an aero position everytime you shifted you would lose a lot of the aero advantage.

Alexi

It would be on a bike with just bullhorns...

Alexi

here is a quick mock-up of the basic idea, it's done out of pieces I had around so please excuse the track-style bullhorns and cross leavers.

LBonney

I've seen people mount standard STI levers on Bullhorns.

Triguy

https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=

These clamp onto the outside of the bullhorns. And work like a standard road brake.

sestivers

^^^ That's what I used to use. But they don't work very well because the shape of the lever limits the amount of cable travel before it hits the handlebars on a bullhorn.

audiojan

I think I can clearify a misconception and answer Dan0903 at the same time... The additional brake is designed to bleed off some speed, for example in a turn, not to panic brake! They just don't have that kind of breaking power. So if you think that you can go all out and hit the brake in the very last second coming to a quick stop, then indeed I wouldn't want to be a round that rider either, but used properly, you can save some very valuable time and energy by not having to get out of the aero position and on to the horns.

blonduathlongrl

thanks for clarifying this.

auto208562

This is 100% correct. It is mainly used for more technical courses which may contain some turns or declines where you may need to come out of the aero to slow down, but these brakes will help prevent that.

Also, from my observations, most people that get these will only get one brake lever, for the rear brake, to save weight and minimize drag.

Dan0930

I mis understood the intention of the OP

Yeah for sure these are only for bleeding off some speed. It always seemed ridiculous that you have to get out of aero just to do a touch of braking.

OT sort of. If you had only one wouldn't you want the front not the rear for greater control?

auto208562

Everyone i've seen is rear, possibility of flipping especially with weight distributed on the front end.

audiojan

You're right in that if we take in consideration that most of our brake power comes from the front wheel. But, since all you want is to bleed off some speed, it does make more sense to put it on the rear as you will have a bit more control compared to the front. Remember, you're staying in the aerobars, which are not exactly the most stable way of riding (well, at least compared to the horns...)