12bar

This is my new bike, I still have to pick up a set of race wheels but won't need them until the St. Anthony's race in April so I have time to shop.

thehammerdog

Dude I gotta ask ya about the STI /Horns set up? does that work for you ? Looks weird? can you shift well? I was debating a similar set up but figured it would not work ? Please let me know..

accordionfolder

If your talking about mine, it brakes extremely well compared to when they were attached to the drops because of the leverage. Shifting is a bit annoying, but plenty functional. If you have higher end STI shifters I would imagine it would be much less cumbersome. Mine is sora shifters so they don't have the paddles under the brake levers, just clickers on the inside. As it is, up shifting is easy, but down shifting I have to reach; if you use the other variety (with paddles under the brake levers) it should be easy either way.

It was a bit of a pain to get the cable routing perfect, but other than that setup was pretty easy. Wish I could shift without moving one of my arms out of the aero bars, but it will do for now.

I can get you some better pictures if you need, and feel free to question away.

ORMojo

Hey – so here’s my tri collection . . .

‘07 Felt DA . . . is so amazing. Some minor upgrades on the Vuka bars, and swapping to flat/straight extensions over the winter. Also going to install upgraded crankset – VumaQuad full carbon with ceramic bearings. The VumaQuad is absolutely incredible – had the set on another bike to test out – the BB30 ups the stiffness, yet, with the 4-arm spider and hollow carbon arms, the whole thing is unbelievably lightweight, and the ceramic bearings spin so much better than anything else I’ve ever tried.DASmall.pdf DAAngleSmall.pdf VumaSmall.pdf

‘07 Giant Trinity Alliance A1 is my hard work trainer – indoor & out. Its perfect for me – set up to be a bit more relaxed in the aero position with higher bars, but duplicates the Felt’s 78-degree seat angle, and the head angle, so I’m always working it the same way. You can see this in the “paired” photo. With the higher/easier aero position I can go on really long training rides or work the indoor trainer for a couple of hours much more comfortably. Also, I’m not concerned about trashing the wheels or crashing/laying down the Trinity, whereas doing that to the DA would hurt bad.TrinitySmall.pdf DATrinitySmall.pdf

Also just picked up a wireless PowerTap and two readout mounts, so I’ll be working with watts this winter and carrying that over outside next season.PowerTapSmall.pdf

And here’s my winter build project . . . well, actually one of them, since I’ve currently got 13 frames sitting around until I find inspiration & time. But this Colnago Master time trial frame qualifies as a tri bike, so it goes on this thread. I’ll have everything together sometime this winter to make it whole. Trying to stay all-Italian, but we’ll see. Got 4 or 5 Colnago panto stems, so I’ll be swapping around as I dial in the fit. Yea, I know that Kinesis fork ain’t even close to Italian, but it is f’n hot (decals are coming off), and there aren’t many 650 forks you can say that about. But, just in case I feel the need, I’ve got a great carbon bladed 650 fork as back-up. (Fork angle looks too steep in pic since it isn’t properly attached to frame.) Also gotta decide if I’m using the Campy Delta brakes, or those awesome Campy graphite Athenas. Seatpost won’t be hanging that far out – just haven’t prepped & cleaned inside the frame so I don’t want to slam the post in yet. Anyway, lots of chopping, threading, prepping & other details to tend to, but looking forward to the build.NagoSmall.pdf GroupSmall.pdf DeltaSmall.pdf AthenaSmall.pdf RearDerSmall.pdf StorikaSmall.pdf

Dwayne1

Well now that's different! I like it!!
Dwayne

Ryon

I've posted in other threads, but oh well. I spent about 5 months getting the parts together, and I recently built it up:

almighty

I was thinking about doing the same. How did you attach the brake levers to the handle bars. Some more detailed pics would be nice. Did you cut the bars or are those bull horn bars?

That is creative.

RFC

Here is another alternative setup. Since my training routes require me to be on the horns about 50% of the time, this configuration gives me a good control center that is also reachable while on the aerobars.

j mazz

This is my Tri bike. New Shimano Tri shoes rubber banded in place and ready to roll. Just waiting until the roads turn black again. I'm new to Triathlon and will do a few Sprints this summer. I got started because of the bike. I bought a used road bike last year - Dave Scott Ironman model from 1988, It was such a cool bike, I learned so much about it on the C&V forum and who Dave Scott is that I had to put it back into competition. This is actually the 2nd Ironman I have. The first is getting rebuilt to stock specs. They weigh about 22 lbs and have a geometry setup that eases the load on your arms - important after a 2 mile swim. A little old and has logged a lot of miles but still rolling along pretty well (like me!)

1989 Centurion Dave Scott signature Ironman Master.
Shimano 600 tricolor components
Syntace tri bars with bar end shifters
Selle San Marco triathlon seat
Shimano pedals
Shimano Tri shoes

sax

PDXaero

^^^
beautiful
The only thing that could make it look better is a few less decals, and maybe a faired front brake

800over

You think some of the decals should be smaller? I just think their should be fewer myself. But to each his own.


Grammar nazi

cslone

You must remove this signature immediately.

rich9cinti

This is my custom built 2003 Kestrel KM40 AirFoil Triathlon/Time Trial Bike. The frame is a 52cm carbon fiber w/ Kestrel Pro 650c bladed carbon fork with Dura Ace bar end shifters, Ultegra cranks/derailleurs, HED DEEP rear 650c tubular, HED Jet front 650c tubular, carbon bladed seatpost, Flite saddle, XLab rear bottle/gadget holder. The frame color is called Black Fade where certain areas are black and some are bare carbon fiber. During the time I had this built, the frame only came in two sizes, 52cm and 56cm. I ride a 2001 55cm Lemond Buenos Aires traditional 853 Reynolds frame and a 54cm Steel Single Speed bike. The shop was able to build this 52cm to fit me like a glove .

I only raced it in 2003 and 2004 since work took priority from 2005 to present. I have thought of selling it but have to admit I hate the thought of ever parting with it . This was my dream build that I planned and saved for 3 whole years. I'm in my 40's now and maybe I'll do some short duathlons this year.

cjbruin

It looks like it wants to race. Get out there!

redls1camaro

First Tri bike. Finally got the money to buy this. After the first ride on it I am in love. Not sure if I will keep my road bike. This thing is fast.

Dwayne1

Keep your road bike, it's allways good to get out for fun ride once in a while.
Oh yeah, nice bike.

aeleven

Nice Kestrel. I have the same KM40, I just recieved it back after getting a crack repaired on the toptube. I would never sell it, It a great racing bike.

joevella

Here's my P3C - I've had the frame for a few months but just finished the build. Only ridden on the trainer as yet.. Centaur Carbon Ergo Shifters, Shimano XTR rear deraileur, Dura-Ace front DER, 11-32 x 56T/39T

dainese51

tflorko1617

I am fairly new and just picked up some deep clinchers,

bas2205

@joevella: That is the weirdest set-up I have ever seen on a P3C... Care to explain? Do the Campy Ergos even work properly with the XTR & DA? 11-32 x 56T/39T sounds like you can't make up your mind, is it a Tri-machine or a MTB?

joevella

it works - you need to provide the 1.5:1 cable pull ratio between shimano and campy ( I use a small lever - but you can use a "shimangler") . we have a lot of hills. There is no road within 20 km where you can stay in a single gear for more than a few seconds.

caelric

Huh, I missed the XTR rear deraileur...I thought those were MTB parts?

joevella

You need a long cage der to clear the 32 gear on the back - the xtr is extremely light, and a beautiful piece - the very top of their mountain line. Works as smooth or better than any dura-ace part.