Here's the link to the thread I posted earlier:
On the fence, please push....
I don't switch it back and forth very often...it takes about an hour for everything....
1. Take the bars and stem off (I use a 1cm longer stem in the tri setup...2 stems also means you don't have to adjust the bar angles)
2. Place the other bars/stem on the bike
3. Disconnect the front brake cable from the calipers, attach the brake cable from the other bars (and repeat one by one until all the cables are run)
4. Replace saddle and seatpost head (I don't have to change the seatpost height). If you have another seatpost head, you don't have to adjust the saddle.
5. Adjust brakes and shifting
Note, I have a set of cables and housings attached to each set of bars. The cable/housing lengths are different, and it is much easier to do if you leave the cables/housings on the bars they go with. I don't clip the cables when removing, I just give the cable caps a little twist and they come right off so I don't lose cable length with each swap. It helps to have a set of cable/housing cutters just in case. Eventually, I'll have to replace the cables if the ends start to come unwound due to handling.
Cable routing is very easy if you do it one by one (keep the cables from getting crossed).
The most time consuming part is making sure the shifting and brakes are adjusted.
I don't switch very often, maybe 2-3 times per year.
Eventually, I may get a tri-bike because it would be more convenient and would probably handle a little better, but the current setup works fine for me now while I'm still new to tri's. When/If I decide to get a dedicated tri-bike, I can either get some $$ off by having the LBS remove the cockpit and wheels, or I can start from the frame up.
I also figured that I have a hard enough time finding time to ride one bike, let alone two.