gazelle5333

How much seat post should actually be showing when you are properly fit on a tri-bike? I was at my LBS and got a quick "fit"(just a quick 20 min. session to make sure I could get comfortable and that the geometry matched my body) on an 08 Equinox E7. I was able to stand over it...barely(only by about an inch or so) and when I was on it, the seat post was almost completely inside the seat tube(only about 2-3 inches of post actually out of the seat tube). It felt great, but this seems to me to scream one size too big. Am I wrong in assuming you should have about 1/2 the available post(give or take) out of the seat tube? Or am I completely off base and having no seat post showing is fine as well? The guy said that if I decided to buy it, we would go through a more in depth fitting, and I'd have the option of switching stems/aerobars/crank lengths/etc. So the main Q is: does no seatpost usually equal a bad fit?

merlin55

Most likely the frame is too big for you, unless you are a freak of nature with very, very short legs, and a super long torso. Go to www.slowtwitch.com for lots of tri fit info. On that frame you would not be able to get the bars low enough for a proper tri-bike aero position. Look at the photos of the tri pro dudes and you will see how much (lots) seatpost they have

BackRoadsBiker

Did they have the next smaller size? If the answer is no, have them get one (2009 are the same as the '08s except with a much nicer spec). There shouldn't be anything binding you to buy if they get it, though.

That being said, I have the '09 E7 and love it. I have about 5" of saddle-to-bar drop which works out to between 3 and 4 inches of seatpost.

From what you said, it sounds like your fitter was A) inexperienced or B) trying to make a quick buck.

Let us know what stem length and spacers are on there along with some rough body measurements-that will make everyone's life easier.

Sorry for the sort of lengthy post, but there are few bike-related things that bother me more than when a shop doesn't properly fit someone because they don't want to go to the relatively minor trouble of getting a bike that is the right size. I work in a shop that sells Treks, and it shouldn't take more than a week and a half to get a bike in and built unless it is super busy at the shop.

Good luck.

gazelle5333

My turn for a long post.

The LBS specializes more in mtn. bike than road/tri bikes. They have stopped carrying tri bikes as of this year and that was the only one that they had left over. I was surprised that it didn't fit b/c I am in the middle of the seatpost for a 56 cm 2.1(when I test rode it last year). I also was really interested b/c he was really trying to get rid of it and was willing to let it go for 1300(MSRP was almost $1900...$1879 or something like that). He also has an allez elite that WILL fit me, just not sure if I want to go road if i plan on only racing tri's. Aerobars are always an option but I was looking for full 105. I e-mailed the owner yesterday who I've been in constant contact with asking if he could give me good deal to upgrade to 105's or if there was a price lower than the sale tag that he'd let the allez elite go for(the equinox was marked at 1450 sales but would sell for 1300 as mentioned above). Still waiting on a response.

As a general rule of thumb, is a tri frame usually 1 size smaller than the road frame by the same company or am I just in that weird size range?

BackRoadsBiker

It depends. While that is a good deal on that bike (he's still making a profit on it, though), it is not a good deal if it doesn't fit you. I would be wary of the whole thing if you aren't sure he isn't just trying to pull a fast one.

I am 6'1" so theoretically I should ride a 58 Trek road bike (I ride a 56 PedalForce), and my E7 is a 56. I probably could have even gotten away with a 54, but the seat position would have created a funny seat tube angle. Unless you are wildly disproportionate (I'm not) the 1 size smaller is a decent indicator.

As good as the deal appears, be ready to walk if the size just isn't right. The owner probably won't be too thrilled about switching out the crank (which is garbage IMO) and the brakes (ditto), because they'll be hard to resell, but it's worth a try.

And as for setting up a road bike as a pure TT/tri bike... unless the deal is outstanding, it's not the best route in my opinion. Road bikes are designed to be ridden as road bikes.

gazelle5333

I have decided against that E7 already. I may have been unclear, but I asked if he had any old 105 components(08/07/etc), mainly fd/STI shifters, that I could buy cheaper than new ones to upgrade. Even though I am new to the STI style shifters, I could definitely feel a difference between the tiagra (2.1/allez elite) and the 105(tarmac elite/roubaix).

On a positive note, I've found a 08 S22 in the BT classifieds for 1500(listed 3 months ago, waiting to see if owner will come down on price at all) in a 52. I ride a 54 cm standard road frame (I say standard b/c trek uses different measurements). Comparing the two geometries show that I would fit beautifully on the bike. Anyone know of a good place to compare geometry's rather than just trying to pull up both bikes in separate windows and jump between them? It would be nice to have all the same specs lined up side by side since almost all manufacturers list their geometries in different orders and you need to search through the list to find the one your looking for.

Calminian

One thing's for sure, your LBS sold you a bike that didn't fit. Hopefully they're willing to take it back.

gazelle5333

I didn't buy it. The S22 is still 1500. Don't think I can afford that right now(have just over 1000 in my bike fund). Maybe a good compromise with the parents of a combination 21st b-day/christmas present, along with my first paycheck or 2 of the summer will land me a new 09 B16 or trinity 1...either of those would be a very nice present Hopefully the fact that I'm out early and getting the extra week or two of work before everyone else gets out of school will be a big help.

Calminian

I see. Misunderstood. The B16 is a sweet bike. Maybe your parents can help me out too.

QR has a good price point for a full carbon as well, under 2K. I've heard nice things about it.

gazelle5333

My parents have said no to any new bike right now, dad seems to think the price of bikes are going to come down in the next year dramatically b/c of the economy, and mom isn't liking ANY of the price tags(she thinks entry level road bike are too much money for a bike) on any of my potential candidates(looking for upper entry to mid level bike w/ at least 105 components and a carbon frame would be REALLY nice but I'm not opposed to aluminum)...great situation I'm in. I'm just hoping to convince them otherwise by the beginning of the summer. I would suck up the cold water and just race in a tri-suit this year(only plan on sprints tri's).

Anyone been through this? Like I said, I'm just about under 1/2 way to the B16 on my own, but mom wants me to put my bike fund toward the trip to Paris next year that I want to go on over break. I know I will get the get a used bike/craiglist/something for 300 and ride that for 3-5 yrs,then go get a really good bike, so if you're going to post those, don't. Also, please refrain from name calling/saying I'm a momma's boy/etc. I have had plenty of that on slowtwitch. One of the admin's actually deleted 50+ responsed b/c of the derogatory tone/messages that were in them. Four members of the forum just ripped into me for almost all those posts, w/o paying any attention to the original plea for advice.

If anyone has facts/advice/guidance that would be able to possibly change their mind, I'd be grateful to hear them, just keep the bashing of this post to NONE. Thanks

Triguy

Well, you're kind of demanding in what you want but I'll try and fit in to your needs.

A. No seatpost doesn't necessarily = bad fit. Look at Levi Leipheimer. Though, if you are going to buck trends, your fitter better know what he's doing like Steve Hed did when he fit Levi like that.

B. I don't know how much your dad knows about the bike industry, but I'd invite him to look at the price increases that most companies instituted in 2009 as proof that things aren't going to go down an time soon.

A good example is the Felt Z70(coincidentally, a 105 spec bike)
2008 $1100 - https://www.feltracing.com/08/product...,1515&pid=8678
2009 $1600 - https://feltracing.com/09-catalog/roa...es/09-z70.aspx

Those bikes are 99% the same, shifters derailleurs, fork, frame, wheels, etc...

C. I would suggest working towards compromising and working for what you want. When I was 16 I wanted my first road bike to do my first triathlon and at first asked my parents to help me. Their reasoning was, "you have a job, you can save for it". Sure as ****, I had the bike in 6 months. Took a few extra shifts at work and took my girlfriend to movies less often. I still remember my first ride on that bike, eye opening.

D. B16 is a lot of bike and its going to be popular this year, so don't expect to see discounts on it. If I had known what everyone else rides at triathlons, I probably would have done my first one on my mountain bike. I had this idea that everyone would be on a road bike, but thats never the case, for every guy you see with a carbon frame and zipps, you see a hybrid, or an old steel roadie. If I were you and insisted on a new bike, I'd look at a Felt F85, It's $1250(I think thats the lowest priced 105 kitted bike around), and then if you get more serious about triatlons in the future you won't have a compromise tri bike, you can get the best one you budget affords you without worrying about other people.

E. I encourage you for your first season of triathlons to use just any old roadie. My wife used a Raleigh a lot like this https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/bik/1075142593.html that we got for $20 at a thrift store.

Good luck

gazelle5333

didn't mean to come off as demanding, just was fed up with all the put downs

All I'm looking for is entry/mid level tri bike(~2000 or so...less is fine as well) with 105 components that fits. I would prefer to be able to test ride it, to be sure it fits and feels good, as it will be my only bike for a while beside my beater mtn. bike. Some people say to get a road bike, but I won't be doing group rides and I will be riding with the goal to train for and race triathlons.

igknighted

Almost every triathlete I know does all their training (95%) on a road bike. It just isn't very feasible to put in the miles necessary to be competitive on a tri bike. They aren't designed for it. The only people I know who have tri-specific bikes are the best triathletes in the area, and those with a lot of money to burn. I know you _want_ a tri bike, but long term, you will probably be much happier with a good road bike with some aero bars for when you do race.

gazelle5333

why do you say that a tri bike isn't made for training? I've heard people say that a proper fit will actually make the tri bike more comfortable than a road bike on long rides and b/c of that, they do 99% of their riding on their tri bike. They use a beaker bike for easy rides, but all training is on their tri bike.

Calminian

er, huh?