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Some Basic and Specific Questions

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Old 12-14-11, 05:49 AM
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Some Basic and Specific Questions

Hi everybody,

I am a relatively new member of the forum and so far I enjoy the information that I am able to find among all those fun/informative threads. I am more interested in long distance biking and have been doing that with my Schwinn so far. I am now planning to get a better bike for efficiency in the long distances + potential triathlons in the near future. I still keep my budget low though. I have several questions that are confusing me:

Q1 : Are tri-bikes more efficient but less comfortable and more expensive road bikes? I know some people use road bikes for triathlons as well as 200-300+K with aerobars(some don't even use those). If they are really close relatives, is that just a marketing policy? Are road bikes all-arounders while tri-bikes are specialized for certain ride conditions? I am sure that at an elite level, they have obvious/significant differences but for a newbie is that a big change?

I find tri-bikes to be more aesthetic/motivating and technically they sound to be more suitable/better machines to allow me reach my goals. Being an aerospace engineer, I have obsessions about my aerodynamics while riding and occasionally find myself thinking about all the wake turbulence I create while cruising

Q2 : I found Fuji Aloha 2.0 2010 tri-bike at a certain website for 590$. MSRP is about 1400s but of course those are inflated. The specs are here :

https://2010.fujibikes.com/Specialty/...Aloha-2-0.aspx

Would you think it is a good deal? I am planning to keep my budget around that and jump to 800s-900s only for very exceptional deals. Would this bike be efficient and reliable enough for daily 200to300Ks? Would it make a serious difference compared to my 250$ Walmart Schwinn Flat Bar Varsity?

Q3 : I am 5 11 with an inseam of 33 inches and used a relatively advanced online fit calculation using 9 body measurements to see that I have to find a bike in Top Tube Range 54.8 to 56.8 cms. It doesn't say anything about the seat tube length because it is "adjustable". Now the real part of the question comes : Only 54 and 61 frame sizes are available in this discounted price. If you again use the link :

https://2010.fujibikes.com/Specialty/...Aloha-2-0.aspx

and scroll down, you will see the geometry properties. It suggests I should go for a 57-58cm bike. Since I will already be using an aerobar with this bike (and adjusting my seat accordingly), does C2 (Effective Top Tube Length) make a big difference? I thought there is a possibility that my C2 in practice may be slightly larger due to extensions with aerobars and wanted to hear your opinions on if I could use 54 frame or not

I will do my best to find the same bike/frame combination in a store in Atlanta,GA Area today, but meanwhile I will be glad if you can help me with these questions. I guess I may get the answer myself immediately after physically trying one of those beauties.

Thank you very much!
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Old 12-14-11, 07:35 AM
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54 is going to be too small and the 61 is going to be too big... I however, take a 61.... what is that website?
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Old 12-14-11, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bassjones
54 is going to be too small and the 61 is going to be too big... I however, take a 61.... what is that website?
I'm guessing it's at Department of Goods
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Old 12-14-11, 09:12 PM
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I wasn't sure if I could advertise here or not (it is not that I want to hide the discount). It is a partner website : realcyclist.com

I ordered the 54cm after checking the 56 frame in a bike shop here today.

I will see how it works. Couldn't resist the price. Just wish to have it before Xmas now.
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Old 12-14-11, 09:19 PM
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Congrats on the purchase! Hopefully the bike will work out nicely for you. Too bad they don't have one available in my size.
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Old 12-14-11, 09:28 PM
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Thank you very much. I trust on the aerobar adjustments to make it more comfortable for me. For the fit calculations, I used this site (most people may know it already) :

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...LCULATOR_INTRO
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Old 12-20-11, 01:10 PM
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#1 Tri-bikes are certainly more efficent but you have to weigh your reward vs cost equation. While the bike may be more efficent will you get more use from a road bike which will in turn equate to better fitness and better times on the biking leg. A single bike owner may be best off with a compromise so that group rides can be done and competitive riders to assist you in technique and motivation and for scenarios like that a road bike may be a better option. As far as comfort it is in the beholder - a good limber person who rides a TT bike alot will most likly find it comfortable.

#2 I like your idea of finding the bike and riding it. No bike is a good deal if it is not the right bike. Also the bars will determin alot of how the bike fits.

#3 What ever bike you choose I would get a good professional fit - with and without aerobars. The top tube length can certainly be different depending on bar and seat placement - but with that said if you get that seat placement wrong you can start impacting knee health and such things. Also you may end up with a different postion for training with regular bars and aero bars in that you want to be further forward in a long tri to use different groups to save your legs for the run.
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Old 12-20-11, 02:09 PM
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Good questions!

A1: I find the tri-bike is specialized for ride effort. What I mean is that I don't really like riding my tri-bike for low effort riding - e.g. early seaon conditioning rides, easy long rides, easy short recovery rides. I generally grab my road bike for those. I think when riding a tri-bike easy, you have more weight on your forearms and seat and it does get a bit uncomfortable. But when the effort is medium to very hard, I think the comfort of a tri-bike is better than a road bike (on the drops). Also, tri-bikes are not meant for group riding. You certainly don't want to ride the aero-bars in a group and I personally don't like riding my tri-bike on the bullhorns unless I'm on steep climb.

A2: Sounds like a great deal. Daily 200 to 300K? Wow!

A3: It's really hard to say since one manufacturer's 54 is like another's 56, etc. But 54 is definitely on the low end although it could possibly be made to work. You may need to swap to a stem with more rise and also a little longer. FWIW, I am 5'9" and have 33.5" inseam. I have 3 road bikes, a 54cm "racer" with 54.5cm top tube, a 56cm general purpose with 56cm top tube, and a 58cm sports/tourer with 56cm top tube. I've got all three set up with about the same handlebar reach and drop, although it did take 3cm of headset spacers on the 54cm bike. My tri-bike is a Softride medium which is probably equivalent to about a 54-55cm diamond frame bike. https://www.softride.com/bikes/fitting.html#qualifier

Last edited by Gonzo Bob; 12-20-11 at 02:26 PM.
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