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  1. #376
    Utilitarian Boy Gyeswho's Avatar
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    2 of the same frames, but different purposes. Btw Crosschecks can fit schwalbe big apples!

    For hauling and road biking (with a tire swap)


    taking the new frame to get set up


    For commuting and all weather (making mudflaps are fun). It's set up as a fixed gear in both versions



  2. #377
    NoVA/DC Commuter Sentinel04's Avatar
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    How do you guys go about making the baskets stay on your rear rack?

  3. #378
    Sheriff of Nottingham seanile's Avatar
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    i've gots some strong legs
    2015 Sketchy CX | 2014 Firefly MTB | 2014 Meriwether Touring | 2012 Horse Road | 2012 Giant Defy 3 | 2011 Geekhouse Rockcity | 1991 Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra Team Weinmann

  4. #379
    Fred Wannabe breakaway9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sentinel04 View Post
    How do you guys go about making the baskets stay on your rear rack?
    Bungee cords

  5. #380
    Senior Member hotbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sentinel04 View Post
    How do you guys go about making the baskets stay on your rear rack?


    Plastic Zip-Ties, and when they break, galvanized tie-wire .
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/11629987@N02/sets/72157639939606343/

  6. #381
    Member bloompedal08's Avatar
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    Nice!
    '07 Cannondale Road Warrior 500

    '82 Schwinn Super Le Tour SS/FG

    '08 Kona Dew Deluxe

  7. #382
    Senior Member TheBugGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sentinel04 View Post
    How do you guys go about making the baskets stay on your rear rack?
    Mine came with metal clips that mount it to the rack.

  8. #383
    Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sentinel04 View Post
    How do you guys go about making the baskets stay on your rear rack?
    ...and band type hose clamps, found in automobile supply stores and hardware stores (since they are also used for in-ground lawn sprinkler connections). Because of the hex-head screws they can be made incredibly tight. (It would be easy to break a plastic "milk crate", so watch it.) They are stainless steel, so won't rust. If you need some "grip" so the clamp doesn't slide, or something to fill the slack, cut some rubber from a tire tube and put it under the the clamp.



    By the way, those plastic ties broke the first time my bike fell. (Actually I put them as additions as a sort of field test. I didn't think they were as fragile as they turned out to be though.) Maybe some huge ties like they use on trailers would be reliable, I don't know.

    The band clamps, being slightly stiff, relax over the months as they gradually adapt to the shape of what they are wrapped around, becoming loose, so it is good to put something with a little give (such as plastic) under them. The plastic expands a little as the pressure eases, keeping the bands tighter longer. Although rubber is good for grip, it squishes a little too easy to get things really tight (if you need it that tight).

    Other clamps I know about are in the electrical department. They have some C-type wrap-around clamps with an integral plastic/rubber insert.

    There are iron pipe-hanger brackets in the plumbing department. These are the kind that are about 1/2 wide, not the kind that look like wire clothes-hangers. They are used to anchor pipes to joists in basements. They have holes to be nailed to the joists, and the holes can be used for your screws. They come in all sorts of sizes and are dirt cheap. You would have to bend them to wrap all the way around a frame or rack. They are pretty stiff (which is good) but not so stiff you can't bend them with pliers.

  9. #384
    Senior Member chicbicyclist's Avatar
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    I'm not done coating her handlebars...


    Batavus Old Dutch traditional omafiet.


    Everything is mostly stock except for the grips and the brooks.

    It's considered a woman's frame but I'm comfortable enough to sport her, and I love look and the easy dismounts of loop frames.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by chicbicyclist; 04-04-09 at 03:13 PM.

  10. #385
    Senior Member SlimAgainSoon's Avatar
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    That Old Dutch is just plain gorgeous, and a great design.

  11. #386
    Formerly Gordo Grande Rip Van Winkle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chicbicyclist View Post
    I'm not done coating her handlebars...


    Batavus Old Dutch traditional omafiet.


    Everything is mostly stock except for the grips and the brooks.

    It's considered a woman's frame but I'm comfortable enough to sport her, and I love look and the easy dismounts of loop frames.

    I commented over in Classic & Vintage, but I'll say it here too. That bike is beautiful! I could just sit and look at it all day!
    Rip van Winkle slept for 20 years, and when he awoke, all the bikes had changed!

  12. #387
    Seņor Member dwnptrl_777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gyeswho View Post
    2 of the same frames, but different purposes. Btw Crosschecks can fit schwalbe big apples!

    For hauling and road biking (with a tire swap)

    For commuting and all weather (making mudflaps are fun). It's set up as a fixed gear in both versions
    All of these are really swell-looking setups...I'm back on the hunt for a road bike...possible an LHT or Cross Check...just can't decide which one...
    ......_ .
    O/---\/O

  13. #388
    xtrajack xtrajack's Avatar
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    Kona fire mountain/xtracycle,Univega landrover fs,Nishiki custom sport Ross professional super gran tour Schwinn Mesa (future Xtracycle donor bike)
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    Here's me and mine



    Latest version




    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #389
    Banned
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    rockhopper, delta V, cannondale H300, Marin Mill Valley
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    Very nice except the MagLite. A ulock is almost as good for bludgening and also secures your parked bike. Combining weapon and illumination makes less sense. Stick with the excellent bike lights available today. Just a suggestion. Keep that light saber handy for when your wife hears a noise downstairs.

  15. #390
    xtrajack xtrajack's Avatar
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    I hadn't thought of bludgeoning anyone with it,now that you mention it I suppose that it would make a fair club.
    I did have a $150 12 watt light purchased from the LBS should have been good, right? Problem was that it threw light everywhere and the battery didn't even last a six mile trip to work. I already owned the three Mag-lites that I am using for a light system; 2 three cell, 3 watt mini-mags mounted low on the lowrider rack for close road definition, The large 4 D cell,3 watt gives good distance illumination. I also use a 3 watt light on my helmet. I still have 12 watts of light,just in a more usable manner. I also epoxied a Blackburn light to the big Mag Lite for a "see me" light.

  16. #391
    Banned
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    Yeah, I was trying to be funny. That's what police use them for, I don't think they carry billy clubs anymore.

    Many years ago I used a mini MagLite. The idea that this would work as a headlight was put in my head by the fact that a clamp was being marketed at that time for mounting mini MagLite on handlebars. When it failed to provide sufficient light, I hose clamped a 3 cell unit next to it.

    I replaced that set-up with a $200 NightSun system that was state of the art at that time, but yeah, short run time as well as heavy, probably heavier than the MagLites.

    Whatever works for you, I just didn't think you needed that extra weight. I know you aren't worried about weight too much, but the lights today are bright, light and cheap. I'm using a ~$30 headlight that has an array of eight LEDs and uses 3 AAA batteries.

    The new NiMH rechargeable batteries work better than disposables which was a delightful discovery for me. They last a lot longer than Duracells, plus you can use them again. Sweet.

    I don't know that my light would work in the Maine woods. You probably need more light than I do.

  17. #392
    gridlock junky jgrant75's Avatar
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    1944 JC Higgens Cruiser, 1988 Univega Aero Speed, 1993 GT Ricochet, 2005 Electra Cruiser, 2006 Cervelo Dual, 2007 IRO Mark V
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    mixte / cargo

    frame/fork: AMF Roadmaster Nimble, beat to hell and heavy as BRICKS
    rear wheel: J.C. Higgins 26″ rim/coaster hub w/1.5″ Specialized Armadillo Nimbus & Mr. TUFFY
    brake arm: J. C. Higgins, this is real nice old school QUALITY
    cog: J.C. Higgins 1″ pitch, crazy nice, but HEAVY
    front wheel: 700c Vuelta mach. rim/Formula hub w/25mm Kenda & Mr. Tuffy - LIGHT and MODERN!
    crank/bb: JC Higgins 1″ pitch, from another dimension, WTF, need to machine down to newer standard.
    chain: J.C. Higgins 1″ pitch, from another dimension, TOUGH
    stem: AMF quill riser, stamped trash
    handlebars: AMF townie bars, OK
    brake/lever: AMF, ? grip is stamped on LOL
    seat post: J.C. Higgins 13/16″, trash
    seat post collar: AMF, stamped, WEAK
    seat: Electra, USED
    pedals: AMF, actually… these are light and spin OK i like em.
    grips: AMF, like first tricycle LOL

    paint: rustoleum, can, easy cleanup
    fenders: AMF, nice, but short
    chain guard: AMF, its nice
    rear rack: Topeak, way overbuilt, cheap, weird
    rear baskets: Wald, used
    front rack: diy milk crate, fun
    bell: i love my bike, more fun!

    more info:
    http://www.jeremygrant.com/blog/?p=806

    before:


    idea:


    romantic video:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhLss9-dTjg

    birthday party haul:
    Last edited by jgrant75; 05-26-09 at 03:15 PM.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    ride
    Bikes.

  18. #393
    Big Doofus mstrpete's Avatar
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    Here's the (likely)final version of mine. I bought the bike itself last spring at Goodwill for $8. It's a Redline Conquest 2 from '88 or '89. Wheelst's from a GT Tequesta that met a bad end; fenders and brakes came off my old Trek 830; handlebars are from my Bridgestone CB-2, which is getting the MTB treatment for son #2; L-brackets are from my local Tru-Value store. Not shown: trailer hitch on left rear axle.







    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  19. #394
    Senior Member
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    Here is a shot of my recently completed CETMA Cargo.



  20. #395
    Junior Member
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    Here's my grocery getter. A Miyata Triple-cross with riser bars for a more upright riding position. And my recently completed, homemade CETMA-style front rack.





    And with the attached grocery basket.

  21. #396
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    @mentalswe: where may i get the frontrack plans? it's nice and looks sturdy

  22. #397
    Junior Member
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    I got the general idea from here.
    My rack uses a different method for attaching to the bars, mainly because of the geometry of my bike.
    It's also made of aluminum instead of steel and most of the joints are glued as well as bolted.
    I've been hauling quite a lot of stuff over the last couple of weeks and it hasn't shown any signs of disintegrating, yet .

    If you'd like some more detailed pictures just ask.

  23. #398
    Senior Member Sancycles's Avatar
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    Bridgestone Utility Bicycle

    Bridgestone Utility Bicycle after restoration. Newly painted and chromed carrier. Umbrella holder and stainless steel spokes installed.

    Combo Stand

    Carrier folded

    Carrier expanded
    Last edited by Sancycles; 06-27-09 at 08:51 PM.

  24. #399
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    My home built longbike... I can toss 100 pounds of gear on this bike and not even know it's there.


  25. #400
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sancycles View Post
    Bridgestone Utility Bicycle after restoration. Newly painted and chromed carrier. Umbrella holder and stainless steel spokes installed.
    bike is delicious, wondering if nicer umbrella-holders are available though, that plastic is sort of uncool

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