Riding 19 Years of Specialized Sirrus Tradition.
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1988 Specialized Sirrus, 1989 Alpine Monitor Pass MTB, 2007 Specialized Sirrus 700C hybrid, 2007 Schwinn Town & Country trike, 1970 "Resto-Improved" Raleigh 20, 1970 "WIP" Raleigh 20, and 1980 "WIP" Schwinn Town & Country trike
2005 Ritchey BreakAway (steel)
Full Campagnolo double compact drivetrain - Chorus 11sp
(50, 34 & 12-29)
Cateye CC-TR300TW V3
Ritchey fork, stem, headset, bars and seatpost
Fizik Gobi saddle and bar tape
The discussion leading to bottle dynamos was just an example of lack of quality on the FPs. Please re-read the thread.
Breezer bicycles use Busch and Muller (http://www.breezerbikes.com/bike_det...&bike=villager), but for the most parts quality utility bicycle manufacturers go for dynohubs now for reasons pointed out by other posters (Breezer and Bikkel included on their higher priced models).
ILTB, I think you're getting on my case because you think I'm some sort of overspending hobbyist. Indeed I did use the cheap FP like bottle dynamos (may try again as I still have them and this post is making me want to experiment). I also use a Busch and Muller. I wear normal clothes and I have a milk crate on my bicycle. Just a normal guy using his bike daily for utility as well as adventures. Speaking from experience in my posts. The reason I spent more than I should have on lighting is because I went cheap and got the craptastic bottle dynamo in the first place, before I realized it's serving very little utility since it hardly works.
EDIT: edited to add last paragraph.
Last edited by jakub.ner; 01-02-09 at 10:05 AM.
But you are correct, I do tend to question the contradiction, if not hypocrisy of some of those overspending hobbyists who brag and boast about the utility of their custom made "chic" builds or rebuilds, with esoteric, expensive and hard to find components.
A Raleigh DL 1 is neither poorly made nor cheap. But at over 40 lbs, its a versatile tank of a bicycle. Stable when carrying a full load.
I often just take them offsince the equipment ofte is quite heavy to carry around and I would only use it for emergency use. Cykeling ith one of those on is hard work. Ony real option if you want dynolight is the hubs I think.
Also I`we been thinking: If you put the same bottle dynamo on a 20" wheel and on a 28" wheel, is one going to be much harder to run? Just thinking since the hub is so much lighter to run than the bottle. Different system innside or is distance from axel wery importent? Guess this is hacking the thread but..
Last edited by badmother; 01-02-09 at 11:39 AM.
For a hub generator (not that you asked, but for completeness) what matters is rpm of the wheel, and so wheel diameter does matter. If you use a normal hub generator on a small wheel bike it will be:
1) harder to turn than usual
2) fully bright at lower speeds
3) possibly able to overvolt your light at higher speeds
To deal with these problems there are hub generators like the SON-20 that are designed for small wheel bikes.
The funny thing is that everything is always a trade off. There is nothing that is best for all purposes. One has to figure out what is best for one's own use. Just buying something because it is expensive or because it is cool is not a very intelligent thing to do. For my own riding a heavy old 3-speed with a bottle generator light and a Brooks leather sprung saddle is just about perfect; I have alloy rims, but they cost me a lot of money and provide nothing but bragging rights from a real use viewpoint. To someone who rides very fast for long distances my bicycle would be a joke. To someone who wants to haul 500lb loads it would be about useless. But the bicycles that would be best for those folks would be stupid for my use. I ride an old 35# english racer, a few years ago I gave away a 19# top of the line triathalon bicycle because it no longer fit my needs.
Last edited by I-Like-To-Bike; 01-02-09 at 11:31 PM.
Some of the old Miller generators used by Raleigh and other British marques have two wires and DO NOT use the frame as a ground. But that would be the exception rather than the rule. The last one of those I had my hands one was from the early 60's.
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Back to the original point, the set screw in the bottle dynamo bracket serves to assure an electrical circuit is made through the painted bike frame.
The housing of the light in the picture (the one from the Pigeon) looks exactely like the lights on some 70`s bikes I am working on just now.
Joe Bike has single-, 6-, and 18-speed Mundos in stock. The 18 is simply a 6-speed with an "18-speed conversion kit" that Yuba sells, which is nothing more than a triple crank, front derailleur, longer chain and cable, a second shifter, and a few zip ties. It's well worth the cost and although it should be on their website, you can also do it yourself with extra parts you have lying around. As for the internal hub idea--I'd love to do that, but the 440 lb. cargo capacity of the Mundo necessitates a 48-spoke hub and a 14-mm (BMX) axle, and I haven't found an internal hub with 48 holes, whether it's Sturmey, SRAM, Shimano or Rohloff, much less one with a 14-mm axle. If there is such a thing, somebody tell me and I'll get on it.