bikerbobbbb

I can stay warm enough. I've been working on it over the last few years. I'm putting layers on over my work clothes.

And I can coast.

But how can I not sweat on the warm to work? Coast... Not pedal hard... wear less layers I guess.

No long underwear and no change of clothes here. Changing clothes would be the next step up, if I ever did that.

I must be layering up too much for the current temps.... Layer up and not work/coast should work, I would think.

caloso

What kind of temperatures are we talking about?

BobbyG

I'm no expert, but I have ridden to work year round for 23 years. I've found two things to be successful for me. One, I always bring my work clothes with me and change after the ride. I use a backpack on a rack. And I'm fortunate enough to be able to keep shoes, jackets and coats at the office so I don't need to carry those items. And two, after discovering bikeforums I have learned to "under dress". That is, I will endure being chilly for the first ten minutes of my commute in exchange for being comfortable for the last 30; and almost completely dry by the time I arrive. But this means I carry an extra layer in case I need to stop. I also carry both lighter and heavier full-finger gloves and change according to my personal temperature. As it gets colder, the key is to keep the cold air off your skin, but not necessarily to trap body-warmed warmed air. I have a thin balaclava for my face when it gets down into the lower 20Fs. Over the years I had my low temperature threshhold creep up to 23F, but last winter I successfully pushed it back down to 12F with fewer layers than I thought possible.

If I had to wear work clothes, I'd wear the pants, shoes and socks, but wear a different shirt and outer jacket and carry the dress shirt and sport coat or whatever.

CliffordK

Bundle up less

Around here, rain is the biggest issue. It is key to get bicycle specific rain slickers with lots of ventilation. But, the thin slicker keeping the wind off of you helps a lot.

For example, most of the Showers Pass cycling gear is designed for cycling in the rain (in Oregon).

What I'll do is a sweater or fleece, plus the rain slicker, and slicker pants if necessary.

Depending on the ride, I could get down to quite low temps with little more. In Portland, I always began every commute with a big hill to get the blood pumping. I never needed much once I got rolling.

MadKaw

We always sweat. (Unless you are a dog, then you pant and only your paws sweat.) The "secret" is to have the sweat evaporate as quickly as it is secreted.
So fewer layers and wicking materials are the answer.

jfowler85

Too many layers. To prevent sweating, you should be cold when you start out; the first 5-10 minutes can be chilly but the payoff is not sweating in the cold.

MichaelW

Dress just warm enough for you ride. Carry spare insulation for stops. An insulated, sleeveless gillet can be used over your shell and removed in seconds.
Modulate your work rate on the bike to minimize overheating. If you have a climb, remove some clothes. Don't make sudden sprints. Use the final 1/4mile for a rolling cooldown. Open some vents/zips and roll along.
I find that the breathability of the shell layer is key for winter comfort. All membrane waterproofs lack sufficient breathability so save them for rain. Use a plain, tight-weave wind blocker with elastic waist/cuffs and a high neck.
Insulate you extremities first, then your core. Arms and legs third. Neck buffs, ear warmers and beanies can be used for fine tuning.

fietsbob

Ive always heard start feeling a bit chilly .. my approach is dont ride that hard, pootle along..

gillet = a vest on this side of the pond.. I believe.. Or a Belgian specialist sports car..

digibud

The point about being cold when you start out can't be over emphasized. If you are comfortable for the first 20min you will be too warm after that time. Because of that you can choose to remove a layer after 20min or you can be uncomfortably cold for the first 20min. I would also suggest keeping a diary of temperature and clothing, making note about what you're wearing and how it worked at this or that temp. It will be quite helpful and if you save it for next year it will be a great reference. Be sure the layer inside your jacket has a zipper so you can unzip your jacket a bit and even the first layer. Also be sure you don't have any layers that are waterproof. Biking jackets are often open weave in the back to allow sweat to pass through. Sometimes my wife and I have to stop and brush the frost off the backs of our jackets due to the sweat that is passing through. If your outer layer is keeping all your sweat inside...that's not great. With experience you'll find what layers work in what temps but keeping a record will go a long way toward nailing this down.

GravelMN

The entire purpose of layers is to be able to remove or put them on as needed. If you are sweating excessively, it's time to remove a layer. Half and full zippers give you even more temperature control. While it is a good idea to have an extra layer with you in case you need it, many people start out overdressed. If you are comfortably warm standing still outdoors without any exertion, you are going to be too warm once you get a couple miles in. Keep your head, hands and feet warm but be ready to open zippers or shed layers as needed. Aim for comfortably cool around the core, not toasty warm.

dh024

- Are you using a windproof or waterproof shell that isn't breathing well enough? That will trap in the sweat. You need something with really good ventilation, preferably in the armpits and the back.

- If not, it sounds like you are simply over-dressing. You should dress for what keeps you warm about 15 mins into your ride (i.e., the first 10 mins should feel too cold for you, unless you are willing to strip off layers as you ride, as mentioned above).

- Pace yourself, especially on the uphill portions of the route and when travelling through snow that makes pedalling more effort.

gatto karma

- start out being slightly cold
- have a layer on your skin which allows sweat to evaporate
- as a second layer, anything synthetic (like an old running t-shirt or biking jersey) will do, but avoid cotton
- have a third layer which is windproof (not waterproof) and breathable. Goretex is good, but I also have a goretex-like winter jacket from Nalini which is not too bad, and use a ski jacket (windproof + fleece layers inside, and also covers butt and upper legs) below freezing point
- coast
- carry additional gloves, stuff to put on your head/under your helmet etc in case it gets too cold
- you will sweat a bit anyway if you bike more than 10 minutes, BUT
- you will sweat less and less as you get more trained and get used to the temperature (this will allow you to wear fewer or less thick layers)

I almost always change clothes in my upper body, as well as shoes, when I get to the other side, after having cooled down 10-15 minutes.

BaseGuy

I have experimented with different approaches and concluded:

1) If it's really cold (like below freezing), if I "start cold," my body is comfortable once warmed up, BUT MY HANDS AND FEET ARE COLD.

2) I tried all products to keep my feet warm (all kinds of socks, liners, bootie-covers, etc.).

3) I discovered that if my TORSO is warm enough, my feet and hands are warm.

4) CONCLUSION: I have to sweat to be warm enough overall.

As others have suggested, zippers/adjustments are nice. If I get a bit hot mid-ride, I can unzip a bit.

Whizzer283

Merino wool base layers

arsprod 

What he said! I don't know how long your commute is but if it's more than a couple miles I don't know how you can not sweat. My ride's an hour each way and I never wear work clothes - just not comfortable. I carry work clothes in panniers.

I do work to minimize sweat in winter because for me it's the fastest way to be cold and uncomfortable. I think it took 3 winters before I felt like I really figured it out and still tweaking. Experiment with all the suggestions here, you'll find what works for you!

BikingZombie

Agree with all the "be a bit uncomfortable" bits. It's super un-nerving to kick down the trail when you're cold, but you'll be oh so comfortable later when you're not over-heated. It frankly is that first 1000 feet or so that are the hardest, after that you're committed and focused more on the trail than the weather (don't stop!). Bring an extra layer or so in case you have to stop though.

kennj123

I tried to do a search on jackets that had good ventilation but i got back a lot of old responses referring to jackets i can't find anymore. I'd like something as simple as a windbreaker on the front with something like cotton on the back. I'm tempted to cut up an old windbreaker of my own and sew a new back on it. Would also like to find something under 100$.

arsprod 

Cotton is the worst, avoid at all costs! Change your search from ventilation to breathe or wick - you want fabric that breathes, i.e. allow moisture to wick away

trainsktg

Try the discontinued Showers Pass Double Century EX. It is still available online in the $100 range. It's technically a rain jacket but it's a great windbreak too.

Keith

MinnMan

Probably I'm repeating what's already been said, but unless it's super-cold, you don't need to have too many layers over your core. The battle with the cold is chiefly your extremities- hands and feet, head, and if it's really cold, face. But if you put on too many layers over (and under) your jersey, you can have freezing hands and feet and still be sweating.

Yendor72

My problem this year is the crazy weather. You leave the house thinking it should be much colder and end up over dressed. I keep shedding layers and wearing thinner materials and I am still sweating. It may be my hat preference,but at this point I don't know. My ears would get too cold if I didn't wear my hat.

bogydave

+10
I'm considering sewing my yellow windbreaker to my medium weight polar fleece, then cut the back of the wind breaker off the backside of the arms, armpits , & back
I need it for the front , (the windchill side), but need less in the back so it breaths .

Another thing I've thought about is putting the fleece on backwards with the zipper in the back & leave it down.
Maybe add a zipper to the back or just cut out an 4" to 5" strip or oval, sew the loose edges, to have a thin layer areas to let out heat & moisture.

The other day I rode & hit temps from 28° to 17°, Hands got a little warm, then a little cold.

Gonna go hit the thrift stores, get some pull over fleece stuff & experiment.

erig007

Try a buff instead of your hat.

bogydave

I wear an ear band similar to this in the 35 to 45° temps
Lets your head breath but keeps you ears warm.
Amazon.com : Elite Cycling Headband Running Ear Warmer Head Band Black : Sports Headbands : Sports & Outdoors

MichaelW

There is a cotton fabric designed for outdoor/wet weather use: "ventile". It is windproof and becomes waterproof when wet, sufficient to be used in military pilot survival suits. It used to be common for wet-weather use by military and outdoors-folk and by touring cyclists, but has been superseded in those roles by goretex, although nature lovers love it's non-rustle quietness.