Gearing up for first winter as a cyclecommuter
#1
Mad scientist w/a wrench
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chucktown
Posts: 760
Bikes: none working atm
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Gearing up for first winter as a cyclecommuter
This morning it was 60f and reality blew right through my lycra, although after I got going body-heat made things a bit more bearable.
my question is, what am I looking at for my first kit of winter-gear?
I figure I need a pair of cycling pants, a long-sleeve jersey, full fingered gloves and a balaclava.
I also had a thought that getting a black helmet w/o many holes would be a good idea (less heat loss and a little solar energy absorbtion) has anyone noticed an effect from this?
my questions are 1) do i need some kind of baselayer beneath the jersey/tights (and what's a good cheap option for this) I was thinking underarmor.
2) what's a good price for full leggings and a longsleeve jersey?
winter for the record, usually dips down to about 15f at the worst
my question is, what am I looking at for my first kit of winter-gear?
I figure I need a pair of cycling pants, a long-sleeve jersey, full fingered gloves and a balaclava.
I also had a thought that getting a black helmet w/o many holes would be a good idea (less heat loss and a little solar energy absorbtion) has anyone noticed an effect from this?
my questions are 1) do i need some kind of baselayer beneath the jersey/tights (and what's a good cheap option for this) I was thinking underarmor.
2) what's a good price for full leggings and a longsleeve jersey?
winter for the record, usually dips down to about 15f at the worst
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 14,277
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
The sticky "Winter clothing guide" has quite a bit of info you would find interesting.
At 15F I am wearing:
Head:
Skull cap and a helmet. I do not need a balaclava (sp?) until somewhere around 5F. I have a bit of a high cold tolerance.
Torso:
Nike Dri fit wicking base layer
poly long john from target ($15)
Jersey
Maybe one other poly layer.
J&G cycling jacket
Legs:
cycling shorts
performance tights
wind pants
Feet:
cycling socks
wool socks
cycling shoes
This year I plan on adding several under armour shirts for wicking, wool shirts, another pair of tights, and possibly several more long john tops. If I manage to find a bit of money under my pillow, I may change to more of a form fitted jacket and a closer fitting pair of wind pants.
Answer to questions:
1) I do not use a baselayer for my legs. The cycling shorts and tights accomplish the same thing.
My baselayer Nike Dri Fit shirt costs $30 at espn shop. Under armour should also work.
2) I believe my tights costed somewhere around $30 at performance. A regular jersey costs me somewhere from $30-$80.
At 15F I am wearing:
Head:
Skull cap and a helmet. I do not need a balaclava (sp?) until somewhere around 5F. I have a bit of a high cold tolerance.
Torso:
Nike Dri fit wicking base layer
poly long john from target ($15)
Jersey
Maybe one other poly layer.
J&G cycling jacket
Legs:
cycling shorts
performance tights
wind pants
Feet:
cycling socks
wool socks
cycling shoes
This year I plan on adding several under armour shirts for wicking, wool shirts, another pair of tights, and possibly several more long john tops. If I manage to find a bit of money under my pillow, I may change to more of a form fitted jacket and a closer fitting pair of wind pants.
Answer to questions:
1) I do not use a baselayer for my legs. The cycling shorts and tights accomplish the same thing.
My baselayer Nike Dri Fit shirt costs $30 at espn shop. Under armour should also work.
2) I believe my tights costed somewhere around $30 at performance. A regular jersey costs me somewhere from $30-$80.
#3
meep!
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 616
Bikes: 2006 Kona Jake, 2005 Giant Lite Xtracycle, 2004 Trek L200, 1997 Specialized RockHopper FS, 1989 Trek 950
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In April, temps were typically in the 20s and 30s here. In that range, I found the following really comfortable:
top:
poly thermal top w/ zip
lightweight jacket or breathable raingear w/ vents
bottom:
cycling shorts
fleece tights
feet:
SmartWool socks
cycling shoes
hands:
fleece gloves and/or wool glove liners
head:
fleece earband (cap if you have little or no hair)
older helmet w/ low vent count (but still need some)
put raingear, neoprene overboots, and shell gloves on if it gets really wet.
I found that overdressing is more uncomfortable than less, especially on the body. Hands, feet, and ears need protection, but the body generates a lot of heat after a few miles, so too much clothing makes you clam up. If you feel you need more, do lots of light, easily-removable layers as you will need to adjust throught the ride. Avoid sweat!
top:
poly thermal top w/ zip
lightweight jacket or breathable raingear w/ vents
bottom:
cycling shorts
fleece tights
feet:
SmartWool socks
cycling shoes
hands:
fleece gloves and/or wool glove liners
head:
fleece earband (cap if you have little or no hair)
older helmet w/ low vent count (but still need some)
put raingear, neoprene overboots, and shell gloves on if it gets really wet.
I found that overdressing is more uncomfortable than less, especially on the body. Hands, feet, and ears need protection, but the body generates a lot of heat after a few miles, so too much clothing makes you clam up. If you feel you need more, do lots of light, easily-removable layers as you will need to adjust throught the ride. Avoid sweat!
#4
Sensible shoes.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: St. Paul,MN
Posts: 8,798
Bikes: A few.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I commuted EVERY day by bike last winter. When the weather was below 50*F I wore the same items EVERY DAY. One set. Lake winter shoes, Bell Metro helmet (with all the winter goodies), and REI Mistral softshell pants.
I varied the rest (layers, jackets, etc.) depending on the needs that day. Expensive kit? You bet. Worth every damn dime too.
I varied the rest (layers, jackets, etc.) depending on the needs that day. Expensive kit? You bet. Worth every damn dime too.
#5
meep!
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 616
Bikes: 2006 Kona Jake, 2005 Giant Lite Xtracycle, 2004 Trek L200, 1997 Specialized RockHopper FS, 1989 Trek 950
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by CastIron
I commuted EVERY day by bike last winter. When the weather was below 50*F I wore the same items EVERY DAY. One set. Lake winter shoes, Bell Metro helmet (with all the winter goodies), and REI Mistral softshell pants.
I varied the rest (layers, jackets, etc.) depending on the needs that day. Expensive kit? You bet. Worth every damn dime too.
I varied the rest (layers, jackets, etc.) depending on the needs that day. Expensive kit? You bet. Worth every damn dime too.
#6
Sensible shoes.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: St. Paul,MN
Posts: 8,798
Bikes: A few.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The pants are kinda funny. Really stretchy softshell wtuff without the fuzzy lining. They aren't waterproof but take a pretty good hit of rain or slop and then only 'sweat' through. Breathe great, though.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: England
Posts: 12,948
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
You need a gradation of clothing for colder conditions.
You dont need a seperate base layer with a jersey, most are polyester wicking fabrics. Use a base layer wicking T shirt if you need the insulation. Sometimes 2 layers of jersey is just the right amount of wind proofing.
Get a non waterproof, ultralight windpoof jacket or smock. They are eay to carry and very effective. Maintaine featherlight is a nice example.
I have never ridden in conditions cold enough for a balaclava, this would be below -10C. A neckwarmer tube is probably more versatile.
You dont need a seperate base layer with a jersey, most are polyester wicking fabrics. Use a base layer wicking T shirt if you need the insulation. Sometimes 2 layers of jersey is just the right amount of wind proofing.
Get a non waterproof, ultralight windpoof jacket or smock. They are eay to carry and very effective. Maintaine featherlight is a nice example.
I have never ridden in conditions cold enough for a balaclava, this would be below -10C. A neckwarmer tube is probably more versatile.
#8
meep!
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 616
Bikes: 2006 Kona Jake, 2005 Giant Lite Xtracycle, 2004 Trek L200, 1997 Specialized RockHopper FS, 1989 Trek 950
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by CastIron
The pants are kinda funny. Really stretchy softshell wtuff without the fuzzy lining. They aren't waterproof but take a pretty good hit of rain or slop and then only 'sweat' through. Breathe great, though.
I plan on this being my outer layer for all but the coldest and/or wettest of conditions, and will probably ski (xc) in it, too. Thanks for the feedback on them. I'll have to make due with overboots and good socks on my current Lake shoes unless I can find those sweet boots 1/2 off!
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Coquitlam
Posts: 2,538
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by MichaelW
You need a gradation of clothing for colder conditions.
.
.
There are two ways to go (depending on your winter climate of course).
1) Gear up in wool, which if you dont buy at a second hand stores is expensive. If it gets wet it wont be dry for your ride home. Since it doesnt wick as well as some synthetics, it tends to get moist. Its main advantages is the 'feel good' factor, and most importantly, it has a LARGE temperature in which it is comfortable. Also, if it does get wet, its still warm.
2) Synthetics. Much narrower temperature range of comfort, dries before your ride home when wet, not as nice feeling against the skin. Some people itch, even with the merino woll varieties. less bulky when layered.
I use a combination of both wool/synthetics depending on temps.
From hot to cold I dress as listed below
Jersey - short sleeves
Jersey - long sleeves
Jersey short + ultralight shell (Sugoi Viper)
Jersey long + ultralight shell
base layer + long jersey + shell
jersey + softshell Jacket (Ibex Neve Jacket)
wool base + jersey + ibex jacket
Rain : Ibex Jacket if light rain, Showerspass Elite if pouring.
All it takes is a few items, and you can mix/match them over a wide range of temps.
Synthetic is cheaper, dries fast, wicks well, but you need more pieces to cover the full temp range.
Wool is more expensive per piece, but you need less pieces.
Edit: oh, and underarmor is NOT a cheap base layer. I have a couple of their 'metal' long sleeve tops and a 'cold gear' top. The cold gear is utter crap, the metal ones are so so. For the price they charge, you can get much better base layers. My favorite base layer is a powertech silkweight longsleeve tops. Inexpensive, wicks better than anythign i;'ve ever used, and dries in no time at work. https://www.mec.ca/Products/product_d...=1155951444576
Last edited by Jarery; 08-18-06 at 07:39 PM.
#10
Banned.
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Home alone
Posts: 6,017
Bikes: Trek 4300 X 2. Trek 1000, Trek 6000
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
The stickies at the top of this forum are very imformative and pretty much cover everything. I suggest you read them thoroughly and then report back.