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  1. #1
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    Cold Weather Lube

    Hi All,

    What do you like to use to lubricate your chain and gears during the cold weather (from about 10 or 15 deg F to about 40 degree F).

    I've been using some "White Lightning" product that is excellent in the warm weather. It's a dry, waxy like lube (applies wet, dries to a waxy coating) and eat keeps my chains clean yet lubed, even though I ride on some gravely/dusty roads. However, with the colder weather, it seems like the white lightning product might not be ideal. What do you like to use?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    AKA F to the C EffSizzle's Avatar
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    Dumonde Tech Lite, all year long.
    '06 Cannondale CAAD8 R800

    Work to eat,
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    YOU'RE AS HAPPY AS YOU WANT TO BE!!!

  3. #3
    LanderRaddler
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    Dumonde Tech Lite ehhh? I'll have to give it a try I'm a white lightning fan all year even here in Wyoming it works great even in the negatives.

  4. #4
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    I try and use a "wet" lube for snowy rides other than that it is status quo.

  5. #5
    ****** squegeeboo's Avatar
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    I use white lightning year round. In the winter/rain I use it more often.
    In the words of Einstein
    "And now I think I'll take a bath"

  6. #6
    ride for a change modernjess's Avatar
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    Boeshield. T-9

    I got the tip from the year round messengers. I don't know why but it seems to work and last better than anything I've tried. It was developed by Boeing originally. Kinda expensive though.

  7. #7
    Senior Member vger285's Avatar
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    Lpd-9 in the summer,Boeshield t-9 in the winter

  8. #8
    Senior Member Ziemas's Avatar
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    I swear by Finish Line XC.


  9. #9
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    How about cables ??? Just finished 22 miles in 22F-25F (first time we've been in low 20's this year) and my front brake and front derailleur were froze up solid shortly after starting out. I had just done (a crappy job I guess) a winter prep last weekend and cleaned and oiled cables without removing them. Imagine I can just replace them but is it enough to pump light oil through the housings before re-threading the cable, or do I need to replace the cable housings too?
    Longbikes Slipstream

  10. #10
    Sensible shoes. CastIron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ziemas View Post
    I swear by Finish Line XC.

    Yep. When it's nasty, this is what I switch to.
    Mike
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
    It looks silly when you have quotes from other forum members in your signature. Nobody on this forum is that funny.
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
    Why am I in your signature.

  11. #11
    the bike made me do it oneredstar's Avatar
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    I have been using Purple Extreme for the last 2 years, summer and winter. It has been the best lasting of any lube I have used.

  12. #12
    DNPAIMFB pinkrobe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ziemas View Post
    I swear by Finish Line XC.

    Yup, this stuff is the shizzle. Protects against salt/sand/sludge better than anything else I've tried. Way less messy than Phil's.
    Proud Member of the HHCMF
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  13. #13
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    Mobil1 automobile engine oil, by far the best nasty condition lube I've used. Better than Finish Line and a fraction of the cost. My car takes 3.5 litres, I by 4 when I do the bi-annual oil change and the remainder goes in my old Finish Line bottles for bike duty.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wilbur Bud View Post
    How about cables ??? Just finished 22 miles in 22F-25F (first time we've been in low 20's this year) and my front brake and front derailleur were froze up solid shortly after starting out. I had just done (a crappy job I guess) a winter prep last weekend and cleaned and oiled cables without removing them. Imagine I can just replace them but is it enough to pump light oil through the housings before re-threading the cable, or do I need to replace the cable housings too?
    This problem is why I bought a fixed-gear bike, 17 years ago. If you get wet and freezing conditions, the water gets into the gears and brakes then freezes. If you have soft powdery snow, the snow builds up on gear and blocks them.

  15. #15
    Senior but far from AARP TJHOO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KrisA View Post
    Mobil1 automobile engine oil, by far the best nasty condition lube I've used. Better than Finish Line and a fraction of the cost. My car takes 3.5 litres, I by 4 when I do the bi-annual oil change and the remainder goes in my old Finish Line bottles for bike duty.
    I would imagine straight oil attracts quite a bit of crud.

    See separate thread on Bike Mechanics forum:
    Campagnolo RECORD ULTRA Narrow C-10 Chain questions

    Sounds like combo of mineral spirits and oil may be worth trying.
    Husband of 1; Dad of 4; Master of nothing.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by KrisA View Post
    Mobil1 automobile engine oil, by far the best nasty condition lube I've used. Better than Finish Line and a fraction of the cost. My car takes 3.5 litres, I by 4 when I do the bi-annual oil change and the remainder goes in my old Finish Line bottles for bike duty.
    +1

    Same here.

    I've tried all sorts of lubes, from Finish line to expensive motorcycle lubes. The engine oil is nearly as good as Finish line and a heck of a lot cheaper. It all washes off quickly in foul wet weather anyway, better to concentrate on regular application than fret over what to use.

  17. #17
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    So, people's particular favorites aside, do the parafin-based dry lubes work ok in the winter, or do they get too stiff?

  18. #18
    Sensible shoes. CastIron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ginsoakedboy View Post
    So, people's particular favorites aside, do the parafin-based dry lubes work ok in the winter, or do they get too stiff?
    My experience with these in winter has been very poor.
    Mike
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
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    Why am I in your signature.

  19. #19
    Sensible shoes. CastIron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hairytoes View Post
    This problem is why I bought a fixed-gear bike, 17 years ago. If you get wet and freezing conditions, the water gets into the gears and brakes then freezes. If you have soft powdery snow, the snow builds up on gear and blocks them.
    A good maintenance regimen has prevented this from happening to me.
    Mike
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
    It looks silly when you have quotes from other forum members in your signature. Nobody on this forum is that funny.
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
    Why am I in your signature.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by modernjess View Post
    Boeshield. T-9

    I got the tip from the year round messengers. I don't know why but it seems to work and last better than anything I've tried. It was developed by Boeing originally. Kinda expensive though.
    boeshield is very good lube

    but you will need to remove pulley chocolate more often, as it builds up
    there more with T9


    T9 is a sticky wax basically.

    it is the business in winter though
    as most crud cannot make it fail.

    it is also
    very easy to control out of the can.

    you can press a little bit and it drips out slowly

  21. #21
    Banned.
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    Quote Originally Posted by edzo View Post


    T9 is a sticky wax basically.
    While it may have wax components, it is NOTHING like a wax lube. T9 is very similar to a lot of the other lubes that have "wet" in the title.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Portis View Post
    While it may have wax components, it is NOTHING like a wax lube. T9 is very similar to a lot of the other lubes that have "wet" in the title.
    ok let me rephrase it then

    it is like glue that never dries ?

    like snot that doesn't ...errr....?

    well....it -is- sticky stuff. i use it all the time in winter, [just not inside cable housing]

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