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  1. #1
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    Thinking ahead... question of protecting...

    Hello fellows basking in the spring warmth.

    This past winter I protected bolts/pivots/hinges/exposed metal of my bike with "ReleaseAll!". It's supposed to be a non-toxic and biodegradable WD40 alternative. I sprayed the stuff liberally. The problem with it is the same as with WD40, it washes out grease and lasts maybe one or two wet days. I believe the stuff got into my drum brake and my front wheel squeals terribly . I also repacked my hub twice this past season! I peg this on my liberal use of "ReleaseAll!".

    I've done a search and saw that some of you recommend car wax for this purpose. Next winter I'd like to try something more viscous.

    What is the wax you use? Or is there something even better. I'd be looking for something that is environmentally friendly and very easy to apply.

    Any recommendations?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakub.ner View Post
    Hello fellows basking in the spring warmth.

    This past winter I protected bolts/pivots/hinges/exposed metal of my bike with "ReleaseAll!". It's supposed to be a non-toxic and biodegradable WD40 alternative. I sprayed the stuff liberally. The problem with it is the same as with WD40, it washes out grease and lasts maybe one or two wet days. I believe the stuff got into my drum brake and my front wheel squeals terribly . I also repacked my hub twice this past season! I peg this on my liberal use of "ReleaseAll!".

    I've done a search and saw that some of you recommend car wax for this purpose. Next winter I'd like to try something more viscous.

    What is the wax you use? Or is there something even better. I'd be looking for something that is environmentally friendly and very easy to apply.

    Any recommendations?
    I have seen various reports that WD40 is pretty evil stuff to use around a bike... due to is washing out the lubricant you need. The problem with WD40 is that it was NOT designed to be a lubricant. The product happens to work around the house for some light duty work for many folks. So what to use. For all the mechanical bits I have some Shimano light oil that came in a tube with a needle. That makes it easy to apply just a little bit where you need it. Too much oil and you just created a place where dirt want to collect... not good thing either. For my chain I found that Pedros IceWax worked nicely througout the Summer and into Fall. If applied lightly, and you wipe the chain off after letting it work in a bit you don't end up with a messy drive-train either. I found that Pedros Synlube worked better once the weather got truely nasty (aka Snow with road salt). Synlube definitely DOES make a for a messy chain, but in realy bad weather you need a stronger lubricant.

    For cleaning the bike I use Citrus cleaner for the chain in my chain clearer. I use Simply Green to clean up after Synlube as it makes the rear sprocket very messy. I then use some Automotive car wash with wax mixed in a spray bottle to wet down the entire bike. That nicely lifts the dirt from the bike (other than the drivetrain), and leaves a thing protective wax finish. I could go and hand wax the bike, but it is hard to apply with all the small surfaces, so I don't other. After one winter the bike still looks as good as new except for a little oxidation on the braket that holds the front derailer.

    Happy riding,
    André

  3. #3
    tsl
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    I avoid the issue by riding a bike that's all aluminum, stainless, carbon fiber and other plastic bits. The only steel on my bike are the chain, FD cage and the stupid bottle cage screws.

    Pedro's Bike Lust is the polish I use. It repelled Rochester's salt and slush admirably all winter with monthly reapplications. I tried once to go cheap and use Nashbar Bike Bling. Didn't like it. I have a whole bottle I don't know what to do with.
    My two favorite things in life are libraries and bicycles. They both move people forward without wasting anything.
    The perfect day: Riding a bike to the library.—Peter Golkin


    Lucky for me, I work at a library and bike to work.

  4. #4
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    This winter I did not ride every day, when I did I washed the bike after every ride, used WD-40 to displace water from the chain and applied Tri-Flow once the solvent evaporated. Might not be the best way to go over an entire season but it's an option.

  5. #5
    Senior Member rbrsddn's Avatar
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    Get a can of CorrosionX from www.corrosionx.com. I use it on the aluminum bits on my bikes.
    Last edited by rbrsddn; 04-10-08 at 06:01 PM.
    1999 Fat Chance Ti
    1998 Rhygin SS road

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the replies.

    André when you wash your bike with the car wash fluid/wax solution, aren't you worried of the stuff freezing on your bike after the wash? I did use Soylent Green, ahem, I mean Simply Green to spray down the bike but I could do that only on a handful of warm days in the winter when the day was warm.

    The CorrosionX stuff sounds good. The MaxWax description states it is non toxic and biodegradable. I will try to see if I can find the stuff at Canadian Tire . Thanks!

    Come to think of it, maybe there is no steel on one of my bikes as per your comments tsl, except for the overly rusted fender. Still a solution for protecting in general would be nice.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakub.ner View Post
    Thanks for the replies.

    André when you wash your bike with the car wash fluid/wax solution, aren't you worried of the stuff freezing on your bike after the wash? I did use Soylent Green, ahem, I mean Simply Green to spray down the bike but I could do that only on a handful of warm days in the winter when the day was warm.
    I have to wait for a not so cold day. I then run my Python fish tank cleaning hose out the front door and thereby have access to warm water to wash the bike. Once I finish cleaning the bike I dry it down with some rags and then leave it in my garage to finish drying. The garage is attached to the house and therefore above freezing temperatures. during this past February there was a time when I just could not get to washing the bike for almost 5 weeks. I just kept on lubing the chain to ensure it would not rust... the build-up was pretty serious, the the drive trane ran perfectly smooth. I kept on checking my chain to see if it was worn down, and was amazed that it help up as well as it did. The bike ran fine till I have it a super spring cleaning. I think I managed to wash all the grit out of the bike chain, because the following week I started to have chain problems. I remeasure and was then in need of chain replacement. I can't complain I got 2200 miles out of the chain, and February and March seemed to have done the most damage. I just wanted to get through Winter before putting on a nice new chain.

    Happy riding,
    André

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