My winter build - I would appreciate some advise from you winter riders.
10-18-09, 12:57 AM
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My winter build - I would appreciate some advise from you winter riders.
I spent the last few weeks resurrecting this 1975 Raleigh into my winter bike. I started with this...
and I am also finished with this.
More information about the build can be found here.
I have a few questions for you winter pros.
1) The current brakes on the bike are not the most compatible (fenders and 700c rims) and do not inspire any confidence compared to my other road bike. Do you have any suggestions for a quality set of brakes that will work well with these 45mm fenders and 700c rims?
2) The shifter cables stick out towards the center and it appears if I route them with too quick of a radius, the shifting is not as precise. I am sure this is due to the lesser quality of the shifters (the housings are fresh and the cable was lubed). Do you have any suggestions for quality winter worthy shifters?
3) Should I opt for a stainless steel chain? That makes sense to me since we salt our roads here.
4) Should I proofide the Brooks leather bar tape to help protect it from the elements?
5) It appears that I can move the fender mount bracket behind the front fork. This should help better protect the bottom bracket assembly. Good idea, or will this allow the front to spray muck on me?
I am fine with searching for specific used parts, I appreciate quality components, and I am not looking to keep the bike "original", so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Christian.
and I am also finished with this.
More information about the build can be found here.
I have a few questions for you winter pros.
1) The current brakes on the bike are not the most compatible (fenders and 700c rims) and do not inspire any confidence compared to my other road bike. Do you have any suggestions for a quality set of brakes that will work well with these 45mm fenders and 700c rims?
2) The shifter cables stick out towards the center and it appears if I route them with too quick of a radius, the shifting is not as precise. I am sure this is due to the lesser quality of the shifters (the housings are fresh and the cable was lubed). Do you have any suggestions for quality winter worthy shifters?
3) Should I opt for a stainless steel chain? That makes sense to me since we salt our roads here.
4) Should I proofide the Brooks leather bar tape to help protect it from the elements?
5) It appears that I can move the fender mount bracket behind the front fork. This should help better protect the bottom bracket assembly. Good idea, or will this allow the front to spray muck on me?
I am fine with searching for specific used parts, I appreciate quality components, and I am not looking to keep the bike "original", so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Christian.
10-18-09, 10:55 AM
#2
Senior Member
What is wrong with the centerpulls you took off ? With modern Mtb-style Koolstop pads they are great wimterstoppers IMO. ( I think Tektro and Shimano both makes longerarmed dualpivot brakes now).
Good looking bike ! Not too shure about your other questions. Lube your chain well and it will last through the winter. The hubs and the BB are even more prone to issues with salt. Grease the stem and seatpost well too, that salt gets in everywhere.
Good looking bike ! Not too shure about your other questions. Lube your chain well and it will last through the winter. The hubs and the BB are even more prone to issues with salt. Grease the stem and seatpost well too, that salt gets in everywhere.
10-18-09, 11:47 AM
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Christian,
Nice winter bike build up. There are a couple of companies that make a long reach brake for 700c conversions. I think Tecktro has the largest selection and best cost/performance ratio. The problem with the old road bike brakes is that the need a little different mechanical advantage ratio on the brake levers than the new brakes use. Since you are using the new brifters, and you have done such a good job on building up the bike, I would suggest new brakes.
One good place with a good selection is Universal Cycles. There are two schools of thought on winter bike brakes. One is to have really good brakes so you can stop fast if necessary. Or brake hard on dry patches so you can release on slick areas. The other is to have brakes that don't stop very hard so you don't accidentally cause your tires to skid on a slippery surface. I myself prefer to have good stopping brakes on the winter bike since patchy slick conditions are common for me.
In regards to the chain. Most of the new 20 dollar chains are made out of alloys that while not as rust resistant as stainless steel have good enough corrosion resistance to last a winter season if you keep them clean and lubed. No need to go stainless steel. The cheap 8 dollar chains are more of a problem and I would avoid them if possible.
I've never used leather bar tape so I can't comment. But I think it would be advisable to put something on them. Bear in mind that when you are sweating chemicals can leech into your hands. So I would use something safe and natural like Snowseal. Which is Bee's wax and Lanolin I believe.
Nice winter bike build up. There are a couple of companies that make a long reach brake for 700c conversions. I think Tecktro has the largest selection and best cost/performance ratio. The problem with the old road bike brakes is that the need a little different mechanical advantage ratio on the brake levers than the new brakes use. Since you are using the new brifters, and you have done such a good job on building up the bike, I would suggest new brakes.
One good place with a good selection is Universal Cycles. There are two schools of thought on winter bike brakes. One is to have really good brakes so you can stop fast if necessary. Or brake hard on dry patches so you can release on slick areas. The other is to have brakes that don't stop very hard so you don't accidentally cause your tires to skid on a slippery surface. I myself prefer to have good stopping brakes on the winter bike since patchy slick conditions are common for me.
In regards to the chain. Most of the new 20 dollar chains are made out of alloys that while not as rust resistant as stainless steel have good enough corrosion resistance to last a winter season if you keep them clean and lubed. No need to go stainless steel. The cheap 8 dollar chains are more of a problem and I would avoid them if possible.
I've never used leather bar tape so I can't comment. But I think it would be advisable to put something on them. Bear in mind that when you are sweating chemicals can leech into your hands. So I would use something safe and natural like Snowseal. Which is Bee's wax and Lanolin I believe.
