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Winter Cycling Don't let snow and ice discourage you this winter. The key element to year-round cycling is proper attire! Check out this winter cycling forum to chat with other ice bike fanatics.

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Old 02-05-14, 01:15 PM   #76
erig007
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When there is a hole in my merino wool gloves i use silicone rubber (of the proper color). It fills the hole, last longer than sewing, protect against cold, reinforce the glove and save me a few bucks on new gloves. To do that i put tape on the other side where the hole is then stretch the glove finger on a stick then apply silicone then let it dry.


Last edited by erig007; 05-17-14 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 11-21-14, 11:54 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by AngrySaki View Post
I like the tips & tricks thread in the touring forum, and I think one would be useful here.
Here's a few tricks that worked for me:

Cold feet:
I moved my panniers from the back of my bike to the front using a low rider rack, so they block a lot of the wind on my feet which helps keep them warm. So far it hasn't affected my stability enough to be a problem.
Low Riders will not affect your stability for the worse. On the contrary, if you load them, they will make your bike more stable. I used to carry books I did not need in the bad Ann Arbor winter days. Stabilised the steering so all I had to worry about uphill was my rear tire. Helps a lot in ice and snow.

Ben
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Old 11-22-14, 12:22 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by alanf View Post
I used to live in Northern Canada and I enjoyed driving my road bike on top of the snow where the skidoos had pressed it down firm. Also when it is really cold, the ice on the roads would be coated with a sandpaper like frost so by being careful, I drove all winter with my road bike slicks.

First year I put screws in my tires but it was like driving uphill all the time so I got rid of them. Gradually I discovered that as long as you are careful you can drive on whatever you like.

As you mentioned grease does freeze and I found that lower than -25 C (-13 F) the chain wasn't too interested in switching gears. By -35 c (-31 F) switching gears was very difficult. Probably would be a good idea to flush the chain in a solvent or diesel to get the crud off first because that is what makes it stiff in the cold, then lube it with something light like WD40.
Fix gears have two qualities that make them uniquely suited for those conditions. One (actually this is true for all non-derailleur bikes) is that the chain just runs over two cogs. The conditon of the chaim makes very little difference, excepth that when you have frozen links, you need to slide the wheel forward to get the proper slack. I never rode in cold like you have, but the salt in Michigan and Massachusetts did a number on chains and no one had there outside hose bibs on to wash the bike.

And, for comfort: fix gears are far warmer to ride downhill!

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Old 12-02-15, 03:35 PM   #79
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Anyone know of any good ninja face masks for riding as a delivery boy that are relatively cheap?
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Old 12-02-15, 05:48 PM   #80
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Anyone know of any good ninja face masks for riding as a delivery boy that are relatively cheap?
what's your price point? max?
I like Ergodyne products
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Old 12-02-15, 07:41 PM   #81
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Check your local big box sporting goods stores and /or ebay. They have a good selection of balaclavas, most with free shipping.
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Old 09-28-16, 06:08 PM   #82
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Keep the inside of your wrists where the veins/arteries are close to the surface, covered and warm. You wil be surprised at how much warmer your hands will be.....
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Old 11-15-16, 06:22 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by tero View Post
I wore latex gloves under my regular gloves this morning (temperatures were around 15F). Fingers were a bit chilly at first, but very warm after the 15 minutes of riding.

I had read that the latex gloves would help by blocking wind. In my case, they worked more like a wetsuit. The warm sweat from my hands insulated my fingers perfectly.

Now, if only they made latex socks, I'd be golden.

use the non-latex glove a size slightly larger than snug. That will work much better. Target has a non-latex glove (blue nitrile)... you never know when a proctology exam will break out on a ride.

Or if you have a mechanical, you can work without your gloves.
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Old 11-23-16, 02:34 AM   #84
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anyone have a general opinion on 700c/29er vs 26er for winter riding? assuming everything else is the same (obviously i can get fatter knobby 26" tires for a cheap winter build)
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Old 11-30-16, 10:37 AM   #85
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anyone have a general opinion on 700c/29er vs 26er for winter riding? assuming everything else is the same (obviously i can get fatter knobby 26" tires for a cheap winter build)
Fatter knobbier tires work better in snow.

Studded tires are...
better on ice
the same on snow
worse on the pavement

Fat studded tires with low pressure work better on ice like refrozen walkways or paths with 3" deep hard ice footprints.
I go straight over them. about 15 psi in the front and 18 -20 in the back. It's slow but fun.
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Old 12-04-16, 08:29 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by 2manybikes View Post
Fatter knobbier tires work better in snow.

Studded tires are...
better on ice
the same on snow
worse on the pavement

Fat studded tires with low pressure work better on ice like refrozen walkways or paths with 3" deep hard ice footprints.
I go straight over them. about 15 psi in the front and 18 -20 in the back. It's slow but fun.
you didn't answer my question at all. i'm asking specifically about 700c vs 26" assuming everything else is the same
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Old 12-05-16, 12:10 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by bike_galpal View Post
you didn't answer my question at all. i'm asking specifically about 700c vs 26" assuming everything else is the same
You have to search and see what format has the widest tires you can find.
29ers speed up a tiny bit slower, and roll over small bumps easier.
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Old 12-05-16, 12:31 PM   #88
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[insert analogy Here] For the Rally of Sweden, run on snow , the WRC competitor cars run Thinner tread tires to slice thru the snow
to the roadway of Gravel, beneath

so Longer spikes than you use on your Car or Bike tires on Pavement..







....

Last edited by fietsbob; 12-05-16 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 12-05-16, 01:26 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by bike_galpal View Post
anyone have a general opinion on 700c/29er vs 26er for winter riding? assuming everything else is the same (obviously i can get fatter knobby 26" tires for a cheap winter build)
General opinion? Of what? I run both. 700x35 on a sort of drop bar bike. 26 x 1.95 or a used rockhopper mt bike. 29 x 2.1. On a Surly 1x1. What conditions? Distance? Most of my riding is done on the 700x 35. The 26 sees worst case stuff, frozen footprints, deeper snow. The 29 x 2.1 are really slow, like slow for mostly pavement. My new crush, been looking at the 45 north 700 x 38, would seem to be ideal for the Boston, MA conditions for the bulk of my riding. Freeze thaw, footprints, glare ice and some snow depth.
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