Old 12-30-09, 08:05 AM
  #3  
trueno92
Building a better Strida
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: toronto, canada
Posts: 1,106

Bikes: bianchi brava 1988. fuji track 2007, 2006 Bianchi Pista, 1987 Miele and a strida knock off

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Originally Posted by stefannelissen
Hello,

Last year I bought the new centaur gruppo 2009 carbon. Works great except for the wellknown soft upshift of the right ergowpower.
Now I heard that campagnolo has changed that for 2010 with a more distinctive click, like
the 11 speed groups. I also picked up that is possible to covert a shifter with an other index
wheel to get the better clic.

Can anyone confirm this ?

Thanks
yeah, we need more stickies in this sub-forum:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...2009-Ergopower

INSIDE 2009 Ergopower

I disassembled a 2009 Centaur 10 speed and a Super Record 11 speed ergopower lever recently. The idea was to see if the more distinct clicks of the 11 speed lever could be transferred to the 10 speed lever. The Centaur 10 speed levers have a much lighter click that some people don’t like. The hope was that exchanging the diaphragm springs (EC-SR009) might create a firmer click. The bad news is that the clicks appear to be a function of the shape of the detents in the index plates (EC-CE160 and EC-SR013) and not any of the springs in the mechanism.

I also verified the accuracy of Campagnolo’s spare parts PDF during this experiment. What that means is that all of the levers have ball bearings on the main pivot shaft, making the lower level models a real bargain. The only slight difference with Super Record levers is the cutouts in the brake lever and part number EC-SR017 that is made of titanium rather than steel.

See pages 40-44:
http://www.campagnolo.com/repository...s09-A-3009.pdf


The good news is that these levers are a lot easier to disassemble and reassemble than the old model. The new design separates repairs into a front section with the brake and finger levers and a rear section, where the indexing mechanism is housed. The only tools required are a T25 torx screwdriver to remove the handlebar band clamp (optional), a 2.5mm hex wrench and a simple hook tool made from a small screwdriver.

I started the disassembly with the thumb button in the smallest cog position. Note that the flat sides of the index shaft are vertical and the ear on the ceramic cable guide is positioned at 3’clock. It’s wise (but not absolutely necessary) to roll back the brake hood, over the thumb button, but the brake hood does not need to be removed. One end of torsion spring EC-SR015 is hooked over a post on the thumb button. The spring must be unhooked by pushing on the end of the spring with a small screwdriver, so the hooked end drops under the post. It will snap back and come to rest against the ergopower body. Unless this spring is being replaced, it does not need to be removed. Unscrew the center fixing bolt and remove the ceramic cable guide. The thumb button is then lifted over the end of the index shaft and slide out to the side. Remove each of the remaining parts from the main index shaft, laying them out in order. Be very careful with part number EC-RE017. It holds two very small coil springs and two 2mm ball bearings. If that part is dropped, you’ll probably be hunting for a long time to find the springs and balls.


I found two minor differences between what is shown in the spare parts PDF and the actual product. EC-SR012 looks like a single washer, but it’s really two thin washers that combine to a .6mm thickness. Part number EC-SR020 consists of a plastic washer resting against the torsion spring and a steel washer in front of it, not one piece, as shown.

Reassembly is just the reverse of the above. About the only thing that needs minor attention is the ratchet teeth on part number EC-RE017 face down, where they can be seen from the underside of the ergopower body.


Below are some pictures of the internal parts, laid out in order, a comparison shot of the 10 and 11 speed index plates and picture of my hook tool.
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