Originally Posted by
mrrabbit
Typically, even if you can't determine whether there's drilling offset or not - my method nails 99.99% of traditional rims anyway. Last time I saw a rim with the drilling offset going the other way was with a Sun Metal rim from the late 80s. I.e., starting the drive side down with a spoke drop two hole to the left of the valve stem with a counter-clockwise twist covers most rims today.
=8-)
Just like ERD is "effective" rim diameter that worked for one person's GIVEN setup - one person's key spoke isn't exactly another person's key spoke.
As I noted already, my first spoke approach eventually results in outside pulling spokes when I'm done lacing the wheel.
If you want you can have the hub drive side down, bring a spoke into the drive side flange from below and hit the second hole to the left of the valve stem with a counter-clockwise twist. This will start you off on a inside pulling spoke style wheel.
=8-)
Ah, well if this rim has left/right i can't figure it out... maybe it's 1mm or so, very hard to decide.
I laced the wheel again using Sheldon brown's technique, which I suppose is ending up with the inside spokes pulling or trailing. Sheldon's method however describes starting on the eyelet immediately left(drive side down) to the valve-stem. A pattern I am familiar with.
Does an outside pulling pattern refer to the trailing spokes leaving the hub on the outside or to something else perhaps?
I tried to lace using the key-spoke method you described, but the snag comes with the extra eyelet to the immediate left(drive-side down) of the valve-hole. Since this opposing spoke would cause issues with fitting the pump-head, the two spokes immediately left and right of the valve hole need to run parallel, yet with your method it seems the left-side spoke would prevent using the pump from the left? Anyway, i was stumped when i started in on the non-drive side.