View Single Post
Old 02-17-11, 02:11 AM
  #6  
Carcinogent
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: France
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have to disagree with FB a little bit. I have successfully converted a modern SRF-3 (read AW) to an AM using internals that are dated before 1950 (i have the gear ring with the intricate spline pattern, rather than the straight splined one). All i did was screw the SRF internals out, screw the new ones in and adjust as per Sheldon's instructions using only the cable tension as an indicator.


Originally Posted by Airburst View Post
Thanks for all the information! You seem to know rather more about these hubs than me! If I might ask more questions, where do the modern internals and shells fit into all this? Would a modern set of 5-speed internals fit my hub? For that matter, would a modern set of 3-speed internals fit a classic AW shell, or have they changed the dimensions?

Also, if I buy a whole used hub, would I have to lace it to a rim in order to get enough of a turning moment to hold the shell still while I unscrew the internals? If so, I forsee an issue with a 40-hole hub shell in my future....
Back to your question as i said modern 5 speed internals will screw in an AW shell but you will not get all gears because they will not engage the internal ratchet of the shell. Modern 3 speed internals should fit older shells. HOWEVER hubs from the 70s and 80s have some trouble with that; not done it myself but others say it is dodgy. It is more a question of threading/machining rather than pure mechanical interchangeability, Sturmey was declining in quality quite significantly by that time.

No you don't need to lace an old hub to a rim in order to unscrew the internals. Bench, vise, hammer and punch is all you need. Read about the general dismantling of SA hubs first. You can't really do any damage, just make sure you are hitting, turning things the right way.

I don't know what for hub do you have, if you can give a little more detail on manufacturing date etc (it is stamped on the shell) I can be a tad more specific. But overall:

New AW --> Old AW No problem (with a caution towards hubs from the 70s-80s)*
Old AW --> New AW Definitely no problem (some people actually like the old oil lubricated mechanisms rather than the modern ones)

Internal mechanism compatibility is obviously the same as I mentioned in my first post.

*old hubs have very thin flanges, therefore requiring spoke washers. The new Taiwan made shells are very well machined, so in my opinion: old internals in a new shell is the better choice.

-Carcinogent
Carcinogent is offline