Old 03-07-11, 11:23 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 36,525

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4642 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 560 Times in 359 Posts
Most factories intentionally set hub cones on the tight side of perfect. There are a number of good reasons for this.

The first is that in the real world nothing is ever truly perfect. There's always a degree of variation (tolerance). In the case of hubs it's better to err on the tight side than loose, because tight will resolve with break in and loose won't.

Also OEMs prefer hubs on the tight side because any bearing play causes nightmares when building and aligning wheels, so better tight during the build, and adjusted/corrected downstream.

Lastly, even with hand adjustment, there's still a degree of tolerance. Here too, marginally tight is better than marginally loose, as it stabilizes the bearing better, preventing vibration and excess wear.
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline