Originally Posted by
jimc101
From what I have found via Google, the retail for the Landrover G4 is aroun £270, this isn't much when you have a suspension fork, and disc brakes.
The link in your sig, shows the bike with low end parts, the disc brakes are no name, and when the pads are worn out, it may well be the case that the whole system needs to be replaced as spare pads are unavailable.
In your case; and any involving a low end bike, it is not normally worth upgrading, except for fit purposes, as you will still be stuck with a heavy frame, and the cost will be more than replacing the whole bike.
I think the LBS say that I can get spare Fibrax pads - I'll have to check this soon. And I think I paid about £350 for it. It's a nice bike, feels much better designed than my dad's carrera, which is a pig to ride. I don't really notice the extra weight - it still feels nice to ride. There are a few things I'd like to do, one of which is make it stop better, and another is to upgrade to a 48 tooth chain ring. The 42 is driving me nuts! And what do you mean fit purposes? I'm confused
Originally Posted by
Werkin
Pad material transfers to the rotor increasing performance, cleaning the rotor removes beneficial compound residue. The time to aggressively clean rotors is after swapping to a new pad compound.
I suggest a try at resurfacing the pads and rotors, followed by a proper bed-in process, before replacing hardware. It may be the type of brake use causes the pads to glaze. If performance improves after servicing and declines shortly afterward, consider a different pad, and possibly a larger rotor to handle the heat. To resurface, lay a section of 600 grit sandpaper down on a flat surface with the abrasive side up, place the pad friction surface down on the sandpaper, sand lightly until no striations can be seen on the pad, do not touch the pad's friction surface (or sandpaper) with fingers, or wipe with anything. Lightly use a finer grade sandpaper on the rotor's swept area; the goal is not to smooth completely, only to remove contaminates, and small ridges. Next use the brake cleaner on a clean, uncolored paper towel to wipe the rotor, not the pad. Different pad compounds require variations in bed-in technique, I suggest a light bed-in of 6 near stops from a running pace for the front and rear separately, followed by a cool off period where the brakes are unused.
Wow. That's a lot of technique, thanks! I will be paying attention to that - it's possibly contaminants that are hindering the performance, though the 180's will surely make a big difference. This sounds stupid, but I've noticed the rotors do seem to be going more grey (pic attached, ignore the rust, it's now been painted over
) - might this be contaminents?
Originally Posted by
fietsbob
When a_ rear of left fork disc caliper_ is braking, there is a CCW force
rotating around the caliper as a torque center ... and an open bottom.
I've seen builds that reversed that , put the caliper front right ,
then the torque, braking, tended to push the axle more firmly into the dropout.
But mass market has kept the brake on the back of the left fork-blade.
I think I'm right in saying there was a design by Scott which had a disc on either side, one on the back left and one on the front right.
Originally Posted by
leob1
Pretty much the only time when lawyer lips come in handy.
True that
