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Old 11-09-11, 01:51 PM
  #10  
Drew Eckhardt 
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Location: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
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Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs

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Originally Posted by canyoneagle
An old wheel that has started going out of true will tend to require frequent truing (the spoke nipples will constantly be turning ever so slightly). I'd suggest a fresh wheel build.
If the rim and hub are still serviceable, get new spokes and nipples, along with a threadlocker (several types are commonly used).
If the rim is unbent you don't need new spokes and nipples, just uniform high tension. Loose spokes between tight spokes on the same side can be tightened and their neighbors loosened or vise versa.

If it's not straight you need to make it straight or buy a new rim. When replacing a rim the existing spokes will work if the nipple seats are in the same location (as indicated by rim ERD). Remove tension leaving a few threads engaged, tape a new rim to the old one, transfer spokes one at a time, and tension + true as if building a wheel from scratch. Nipples can be reused when they turn freely and are otherwise undamaged. Alloy nipples that weren't properly lubricated can freeze in place and in extreme cases take a pair of vise grips to remove for disposal.

Don't use thread locker (unless you're kludging around a bent rim that you can't straighten, using stupid light 360g rims that won't take a lot of tension and have significant drops when you install a set of tubeless tires, etc.) It'll make the wheel harder to service in the future and isn't need.

Anti-seize is the preferred choice (it'll stay in place with rain and snow and prevent galvanic corrosion).

Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 11-09-11 at 01:58 PM.
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