onespeedbiker

You may just want to mitigate the problem. Assuming there is not a great difference in tension, you may simply have a spoke that got itself bent while being laced in a way that is sticking out a little and pushing the other spoke with it. I had a similar problem when I replaced a broken spoke. First I would re-seat the spokes; I use the handle to an 8" Crescent wrench. Insert the handle from the rim side down into the "V" between the spokes that cross on the same side (the handle should be as far down into the V as possible). and push the wrench head over, bending one spoke into the other. Another thing that would mitigate the problem is simply bending the problem spokes closer to the middle. Just grab the two from the drive so your palm is right at the V and wrap your fingers around the adjacent two spokes on the non-drive side and squeeze the spokes together while pushing a little more pressure with your palm (the drive side spokes are tensioned more than the non-drive side so it may take a bit of effort pushing against the trouble spokes). You may also want to change the dish of the spokes so the center is a little more to the left; minor tire wobble can be a few millimeters. Finally you can cheat you derailleur hanger out a little. 8 speed shifters are much more forgiving than 9 or 10, so a millimeter or two should be a problem. Also some derailleur hanger tools rely on the rear wheel to be square so any discrepancy such as a 1mm wobble will not throw it off (it may actually be a 1mm or 2 off too close). By the time you are done with even a few of these tweaks, there will be plenty of room for the chain moving between the rear derailleur and spokes.

Edit: One more thing; it looks like you have enough room between the lockring and the dropout to put a 1-2mm spacer; generally the cassette should cover a small portion of the cone lock-nut and there should be no extra spacers on the right side of the axle; if your cassette to too close to the wheel it can also throw off your chainline.