Old 09-30-12, 08:33 AM
Half drunk? Finish!
RobbieTunes's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Very Southern Indiana
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Did the research as suggested by BianchiGirll. Amazing how much got lost in some people's perception of the problem, but the solution that came out (modified cable stops) was not that bad looking. I'm referring to the blog link that was in one of BG's links. There were a couple of photos of other "solutions," but I am not confident those were referring to the same problem.

The main issue is the size and shape of the B braze-on being incompatible with the cavity of the Shimano cable stop. In my case, there are three main differences: a) the braze-on round "post" is deeper than the cable stop can handle and get flush to the DT. b) the "key" on the front of the braze-on is in the way. c) the round "base" of the braze-on is larger in diameter than the cable stop's cavity, so "flush" against this round "base" is as close as that stop is going to get. The stop is simply not, without a lot of work either to the stop or the braze-on, going to be flush to the DT.

When you have too much material going into an incompatible space, you either modify the material or modify the space. If the frame hadn't already been repainted (hindsight-AAaargh), I'd take a file to the braze-on until the key was gone and test-fits of the cable stop looked ok. Too late for that. DT shifter collars hide a lot. DT cable stops do not.

Experience and observation and research of this particular problem supports slotting the cable stop to accommodate the "key" on the braze-on. The depth of the "post" and the circumference of the "base" will resist my equipment and skill limitations, as far as modifying space inside the cable stop. I actually thought about making a mold of the inside of the cable stop, then comparing it to the braze-on, to see where I could get the most "fit" for my modifcation efforts, after I made the key slot. Bugger that, I'm simply going to file a slot to accommodate the key, and get those in as close as possible, like the Raleigh Kodiak in blog.

The next problem, for me, will be the mounting bolts. I do not have the bolts from the shifters, and I don't want a bolt with a wide washer and clip on it, anyway. I'm pretty sure between force and JB Weld, something will work, if a quick run through Lowe's or Fastenal fails to find one. They only have to mount, successfully, one time. The force acting to move the stop is linear, along the DT, so I'm not worrying about the stop rotating or anything like that.

My hope is that my solution will look just like the blog results, as far as the fit of the stop up against the frame. The cable will not be so far out from the DT that it looks bad, the stop will perform as needed, and I'll ride the durn bike.

Robbie ♪♫♪...☻
I have unfinished business.

Last edited by RobbieTunes; 09-30-12 at 08:50 AM.
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