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Old 12-15-12, 04:50 PM
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FBinNY 
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 35,964

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

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Originally Posted by jim hughes View Post
I won't discard a $20 assembly like a freewheel if I can fix it. I could put on a new one and be unlucky the next day, be forced to ride through more wet sand and be right back where I started.

I've tried soaking in solvent and flushing with WD40 without success; the sand just didn't dissolve or find it's way out. So I have to disassemble. Using a heavier lube inside the freewheel - I don't know if that would help, or make things worse. How is a chain lube expected to repel sand?
Chain lube doesn't repel sand. But sand doesn't magically enter a freewheel, it's carried in with water. A well lubed freewheel resists water entry, thereby resisting the sand it carries.

As for soaking and flushing, we don't expect sand to dissolve (it won't) but expect it to leave by the same method it used to enter, being carried along with liquid. I suspect that you're having problems because you're not letting the solvent enough time to break down the oils and greases sand may be adhering to. That's why I soak for hours with an occasional swish before making any effort to flush. Ask any homemaker how much easier greasy roasting pans are to clean if soaked first.

If you want an easier method to flush freewheels, here's what I do. Years ago I found a piece of plastic pipe with a close fit to the inside of the outer sprocket (only works with overhanging outer sprockets). I built up the end with electrical tape so I had to jam it in. Then I put a cork into the center hole and pour solvent down the pipe where the only exit is now through the freewheel. This ensures a fast and complete flush. When finished I remove the pipe, but leave in the cork, and pour oil into the center well and let it seep through the freewheel.
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