Old 03-10-13, 06:49 PM
  #11  
dddd
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
 
dddd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,193

Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.

Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1565 Post(s)
Liked 1,295 Times in 865 Posts
Originally Posted by 3speed
So I need to find a long stem(9-10cm), even though the bars will then sweep back past the stem?
Yes, a much longer stem is advisable here.

Remember, that with respect to the stem length, the last word on how this bike will handle lies in where the grips are in relation to the steering axis, and that having the grips near to or behind the steering axis will make for a very weird steering response on a road frameset.

As for the mid-lower level Fujis, I find these have a relaxed steering geometry. Even with this small frame, and likely raked-out head tube angle, the fork will have been "rake-adjusted" to match the frame for, in this case, a stable road geometry, which is all for the better.

But again, it's the grip placement you should compare to the original, stable setup, and which should be foremost consideration in your search for an appropriate bar and stem.
This bike will never be a cruiser in the sense of having the saddle far behind the bottom bracket, and it's silly and difficult to go for that sort of positioning with this one.
dddd is offline