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Old 03-23-13, 08:40 AM
  #11  
GeorgeBMac
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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Bikes: 2012 Trek DS 8.5 all weather hybrid, 2008 LeMond Poprad cyclocross, 1992 Cannondale R500 roadbike

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Originally Posted by jdon View Post
Unless you have very unusual body geometry, (I am talking Tyrannosaurus Rex) that bike should fit you. The two most common problems I find when people complain about pressure on their hands are, core strength and saddle height. The first, well, get on the floor and start those crunches and planks. The second is a little more technical.

Start by reversing everything you you did with your seat and post. Yes, hit the refresh button, return it to how it was. Sit on the bike and maybe rest a shoulder against a wall or door frame. Place your foot on the pedal in its normal riding position. This should be around the ball of the foot, not the arch. with the crank arms parallel to the ground drop a plumb bob from your forward knee (the one you will be pushing down with to start cycling) down to the pedal spindle. The string should be resting on the bone inside of your knee cap, not on the knee cap. The front of that bone should be pretty much centered on the pedal spindle. That determines your forward aft position.

Once you have done that, rotate the pedal to the bottom of your power stroke. If you could see yourself from the side, the crank arm would be at about the five o'clock position (sux if you think in digital time). In that position, your knee should have a bend of 15 to 20 degrees. That will determine an approximate saddle height. Your hips should not rock when pedaling. A lot of old school (old) guys are looking for a straight leg at the bottom of the pedal stroke, you know, like most of us were taught back in the day. That simply is incorrect.

Once you have done that, take the bike for a good spin and see how it all feels. If you are still too far forward, well, maybe a slightly shorter or more inclined stem will work for you. Good luck!

ps. That is the $75 dollar bike fit. The $300 fit is far more complex.
Yes, probably at some shops -- probably the lazy, greedy ones. It certainly wasn't at mine. The stuff you mentioned was taken care of in the first 2 minutes of a 30-40 minute ($75.00) fit. The rest of the fit was working with bar and stem configurations after the seat position was adjusted correctly. The result was that it took a bike that I thought fit pretty well and transformed it into a bike that now feels like an extension of my body...

For the OP: it is entirely possible that the bike you have is too small for you -- but you have the seat raised to compensate -- which then throws the rest of the configuration off -- thus causing discomfort as you ride... I'm not saying that that IS the problem -- just that that MIGHT be the problem -- or one of the problems...

Bike fitting is bringing a lot of different things together into a whole that works for you...
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