Originally Posted by
lootcorp
Hi all,
I have a 2010 Bianchi Vigorelli I bought 2 years ago, probably around 2,000 miles total on it so far (I know, slacker...
). I measured my chain recently and found it was pretty worn, both with the ruler test and using a Filzer chain wear gauge (appeasing both sides of that argument). With the Filzer gauge it falls right through to the 1% mark (here's what the gauge looks like:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FRTJ0Q).
I took the bike into the LBS for a tune-up/"drivetrain overhaul" expecting them to replace the chain. I got the bike back, very clean looking, same worn chain. When I called to ask why they didn't replace it, they told me their philosophy is that the chain and cassette wear together and unless you are experiencing shifting problems or chain skip, it is best to just keep the chain/cassette clean and lubed until you replace them both. The drivetrain overhaul involves them taking apart and cleaning the chain/cassette/RD, etc...
Now, I can certainly see the logic in what they are saying, but it seems like this sets them up to replace a lot more cassettes (and possibly chainrings) down the line...is their repair philosophy complete BS or do any of you also prescribe to the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school of thought?
Wondering if I should just slap a new chain on and deal with the possibility of skipping until the new chain wears to match the cassette teeth or just leave it and replace both chain and cassette when I have reason to (chain breaks, skipping, bad shifting, etc...)
FWIW, I took it out for 60 miles this weekend on a ride that used all gears and experienced no issues whatsoever.
Thanks,
Jim
The way I figure the life of my chains is I'll replace it when it goes over 0.75% extended, using a Park Tools chain checker. When it measures under 0.75% with no tension but putting a little pressure on the pedal causes the 0.75% indicator to fall through the chain, I replace the chain. If the new chain skips on the old cassette then replace the cassette as well.
Another way to do it is to just run the chain until it starts skipping and then replace chain and cassette, accepting that you may need to replace some or all of the chainrings at the same time. Since I can change a chain myself and they cost £12.99 I'd rather replace the chains more often and not have to replace the cassette and chainrings as well.
It may be that it would be cheaper to just run the lot until everything is trashed and then replace chain, chainrings and cassette all at once, I'd just rather know that everything is working as it should rather than finding it starts to get unreliable in some gears but not others and then having to buy potentially £140 worth of parts at once.