Assuming your saddle-BB relationship and saddle-handlebar relationship are set up correctly now, for the purpose of sizing, you can ignore everything except Reach and Stack.

Here's some info, it's written referring to Tri bike sizing but the explanation of Reach and Stack is still very good, start here and click around: http://www.slowtwitch.com/Bike_Fit/C...nial_3432.html

But, you said your frame was "too big" and you are solving the problem with a short stem (90 isn't that short, but still) - so in order to know if this frame will be better or worse, we need to know if "too big" means "too long" or "too tall" or both.

The stork is the same length (Reach) but lower front end (Stack).

The two bikes are identical with respect to reach - fore-aft distance. If your "too big" is "too long" you are not solving that problem with the Stork, or at least not directly.

The stack difference of almost 2cm is going to mean that if you had the same amount of spacers under the stem, the Stork's bars will be 2 cm lower. If your "too big" is "too tall" then this frame will help. Obviously, what you do with spacers on the old and new frames will determine what the "real" difference is - bringing the bars up also brings them further back, so if you have no spacers on the old frame and put spacers on the new one to bring the bars up, you will also be bringing the bars closer to you, so it will feel shorter.

Alternatively, if you compare the frames with zero spacers... With a lower handlebar, you might find that your hip angle is more closed than on the Fuji, which might make you want to move the saddle forward, effectively rotating the entire position towards the front around the BB, and making you want a longer stem (or keep the same stem and feel less stretched out, which could be exactly what you want. If you don't rotate, you may want a shorter stem.

Clear as mud?

Let's see a picture of your current bike, or at least tell us if you have any spacers under your stem.