I have pinch flatted a bunch of tubulars from hitting potholes and road debris over the years. Haven't found that latex tubes are much less prone to pinch flatting than butyl in either tubulars or clinchers, a pinch is a pinch. But latex does go flat a bit slower when the punctures are small.
All the tests I've seen on tubeless have been a few generations separated from the latest versions but that may be more an issue with my data base. The differentiations between tires weren't all that huge, but I would be looking for the watt or two if I was time trialing. I flatted out of a half dozen or so races in the last 12 months, and if I could knock that in half it would be worth a watt.
I would be interested in seeing if the tests played around with pressure what the results would be...would running a tubeless at 90 improve the crr? And the tests I've seen all have a presumed road surface...food for thought.
The ammonia issue is easily solved by riding the tire a bit, releasing the air, then refilling a few times. The corrosive part of the sealant is a volatile and will off-gas quickly leaving you with mostly water and latex. And with carbon it's a non issue.
I am assuming (guessing) that ammonia keeps latex in solution better than XYZ ingredient, otherwise they wouldn't use it? But I question whether there is something else at play. Oxidation that would roll through a rim in a few months as claimed is pretty far out of "it's the sealant" mode as a sole cause in that small a percentage. I have built and used many an aluminum speargun over the years that saw years of salt water use and barely blinked. My guess is there is something else going on that's setting up a galvanic cell. The one set of Shimano wheels the the weight weenie guy had were carbon/aluminum rims. Hmmmmmm.
zinc nipples would be the answer
In any case if Stans was so horribly corrosive then why are some rims not blinking after years of service? Alloy selection? Other materials in the wheel? Some alloys are much less corrosion resistant but to this degree? And you'd expect a pretty huge backlash vs. the onesy/twosy thing. The one person's conclusion that the soap he used couldn't be an issue is a bit of denial too.
Corrosion is funny...I can tell you a good $5,000,000 story sometime.
Tubeless rims can be run without sealant, though that seems to be a waste of a good option.
As far as weight goes tube vs tubeless is pretty negligible when you weight all the stuff in a bucket. If grams are of primacy you're already rolling your eyes at clinchers.
Worth noting for the latex tube folks the Challenge latex tubes have a removable valve core if you did want to add sealant.