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Old 01-05-14, 09:17 PM
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loimpact
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: SoCal
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Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Supersix Evo 3; 2014 Cannondale Quick 4; 2014 Cannondale Crash 4 hi-mod

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Interesting with the nail polish bit. Definitely not far fall, just down to the ground. On its side. Not knowing exactly where the transition would be, I'm going to post a hack-job pic from my iPad but just to illustrate where the fork shows the obvious CF ribbons but then transitions where it's solid black. (I'm not assuming it's not CF there, but it's definitely not showing like on the lower fork). I assume the steerer is alloy.

And to HillRider.....You mean remove the front wheel & actually pry the forks outward/inward to look for movement? (I haven't pulled the fork & would rather not unless you think it's vital).

Thanks again! Great advice so far!




Originally Posted by reddog3
Carbon forks are "tougher" than we might give them credit for. I have however seen catastrophic failures with carbon forks, but they were a result of some heavy duty impacts (car crashes etc.) that no fork would have survived. The difference is that the carbon forks shattered, whereas steel forks would have twisted so as to be un-rideable.

Not all carbon forks are built the same, even those with a carbon steerer. If yours have as alloy steerer, the crown is most likely alloy as well with carbon legs bonded at some point. This is where you want to look for any compromise at the joint. If I see anything that appears to be a separation at a joint I use nail polish to fill the area and take a ride around the block. If the nail polish cracks, bingo- loose joint.

Other than that- I go with HillRider' suggestions.
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Last edited by loimpact; 01-05-14 at 10:03 PM.
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