Old 01-25-14, 08:16 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tariffville, CT
Posts: 15,093

Bikes: Tsunami Bikes

Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 262 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
I'd go deeper fellow as a not-as-successful sprinter.

The top speed differences, in faster cross-tailwind sprints, is really significant with more aero wheels. Me personally, in very uncontrolled testing, I see 1-3 mph minimum and my most extensive tests ended up with a 6 mph difference, in that case between TriSpokes (aka HED3) and box section 28h wheels. The lighter wheels wind up quicker - you'll get a set of light (1300g or lighter) wheels up to speed in 6 or 7 big revolutions coming out of a hairpin corner, i.e. rolling start. The aero wheels will take another 4-5 revolutions, accelerating a bit slower but continuing to a higher speed. If you can test wheels back to back on the same bit of road it's pretty telling, especially if you start like aero->non-aero->aero->non-aero. You'll see the aero wheels pick up speed (but not snap) repeatedly. If you can throw other wheels in the mix it's really interesting. And tiring.

I looked at Reynold's site real quick - the Strike SLG. Failing that (even if you have to pay some upgrade charge) then the Strike 66 whatever they called it back in the day, the not-so-wide one.

Also I'd definitely get tubulars. They're a heck of a lot safer - if you blow a tire mid turn while heeled over at 30 mph you have a really, really, really good chance of riding out of the corner without any special training or practice. If you blow a clincher in the same situation you have basically the same chance of hitting the deck immediately. It's a bad situation if you blow a clincher mid turn.

Also tubulars are way lighter for a given durability. You can get lighter clinchers (and light tubes and light rim strips) that cut in 20 miles or you can ride the same effective weight tubulars that flat only when you've worn the tread down to nothing. Tubulars don't pinch flat, basically, and if you pinch flat a pair of tubulars, as one of my teammates did once, the flats are the least of your concern. He destroyed two Specialized TriSpokes (aka HED3 now) in the process, hitting a massive pothole at 45-50 mph.

The benefits of the tubulars is that you have a better jump because the tire area is lighter because the tire handles all the pressure, not the combination of the tire and the rim. The rim is usually lighter for the same reason - no need to hold in 150 psi sideways, as a Reynolds clincher will do (I used to have Reynolds DV46 clinchers and tubulars). So you have a better snap/jump. You can trade some weight for aero so now you have a more aero tubular for the same weight as a clincher.

Also, except for the newest bulging-side clinchers (which I haven't ridden so I have no experience with them), the wide tubulars are more aero than the wide clinchers. This is because the rims bulge properly aerodynamically, they're not limited to a vertical brake track. (I think the new FLO clinchers have tapered brake tracks so that changes things, not sure of any other aero clinchers.)
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
carpediemracing is offline