Old 11-16-14, 10:24 AM
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Jinkster
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Port Saint Lucie, FL
Posts: 356

Bikes: 2013 Specialized CrossTrail Disc,2004 Giant OCR3,1999 Trek Mountain Track Sport 800

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Originally Posted by Wanderer View Post
Make sure you screw that preload all the way up. And, you can make the bars more narrow by aiming that first stalk of the Myrricle straight forward, and then the one closest to the mirror UP instead of out.

Then get yourself a set of Specialized P-2 barends, short-rubbery, to give yourself more hand positions. A rear rack will turn it into a utility bike, or put one on your Trek.

I love my Crosstrail. Wish I had your discs...... Really a nice looking bike.
Wanderer...Thanks!...and I don't have the wide stock steel oem flatbar on this bike...it was already upgraded to a shorter and stiffer specialized aluminum 31.8mm diameter bar with ergon grips...(that are very nice btw)...but I will look into the bar-ends though...meanwhile?...for the benefit of others here?...

With me being somewhat of a re-entry rookie at this and this new Crosstrail Disc being my first ever "suspended bike" of any kind in my life?....I had this horrific thought this morning regarding what I just did too the ergo's of this bike...where I swapped the stem out too the long low one to get more weight on my hands and a slightly more aggressive riding position with quite a bit more "Weight Forward" to also accommodate my Specialized Romin Evo saddle...then as I was reading up about hybrids here in this forum?...I read where some 200+LB riders were complaining of their lower line suntour front fork (like I have on this bike) bottoming out and with me being 210lbs?...I thought...

"Oh No!...did I just do all that parts swapping to go more aggressive and weight forward only to eat up most of my suspension by doing so?"

Now that's the bad news...but the good news is?...I used to road race sport bike motorcycles...a lot.....for several decades....and not only did I used to machine and make internal valving components for compression and rebound damping of race bike suspension systems I also became somewhat of a suspension guru to my inner circle of race bike buds....and it was now time to answer my own questions about what I just did to my lower line (non-lockout) suntour front forks...with an advertised 50mm (2"s) of max travel....so it was....

"Front Suspension Test Ride Time"

and what I did was I took an old twist clip (laying in my toolbox from some sport bike I owned or worked on years ago) and wrapped it around the right front fork stanchion right at the base where dust seal meets fork like so....



and then?...I Rode It Like I Stole It! LOL!....doing everything I could do (within my capabilities) in an attempt to bottom out my front forks....I rode over the nastiest, clumpiest roadside grass...then I even caught some air jumping a couple swales...and for a grand finale?....several times I pedaled the bike as fast as I could get it going (on smooth pavement) then purposefully threw all my body weight forward while simultaneously crushing the front disc brake almost standing the bike on it's nose...several times over...and from what I can tell?...NEVER...managed to bottom out the front fork and here's the clip reading afterwards...



as after all of that?...the most compression I got was 1 5/8ths"s...and even giving it my best effort?...was only able to compress the 50mm front forks 41mm's...so if I ever do bottom out these front forks?...it means one of three things...

1. I gained in excess of 50lbs or?...

2. My forks sprung a leak somewhere or?...

3. I did something I wasn't supposed to do at my age and I'm in the ER.

again...this bike is awesome...I can tell it's weight is going to shave off about 10-20% of what I can achieve on pavement with my RB but for what it lacks in range, speed and sprint-ability?...it makes up for in comfort and it's go anywhere rugged character...I'm tickled with it!
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