I'm 52. I was riding a Bianchi in 1970 when I upgraded to tubular rims and a Campy front De-railer. I bought the first BMX specific bike when it first appeared around 1975- a Redline with cast aluminum wheels. I own Cannondale road and Mountain bikes. I've got a Schwinn Stingray Chopper just to look at. I've owned 16 motorcycles, did all my own mechanical work. I've rebuilt car engines, worked as a machinist. - If you follow the instructions, you'll never even know these cranks are faulty-you'll never SEE it! I FEEL LIKE I'VE BEEN TAKING CRAZY PILLS! The effective bore length of the crank arm spindle hole is 18mm, If that length were splined, I might let it slide, But 7mm is just smooth - Spline length is only 11mm- That's not much. Your rear axle is 10mm. You can't have only 9mm of tiny aluminum splines engaged and call that reasonably sturdy. The bike shop said they'd face the shell for just 10 bucks if the crank was out. But after the zig zag operation, tightening the bearings left a mark on any high spot. I just took off the high spots untill they didn't appear anymore. Removing a whole millimeter isn't your typical facing job, and I had to do it myself to get it exactly where I wanted it.
Last edited by tour de low; 11-01-05 at 03:00 PM.