Originally Posted by
Red Beard
Lotekmod...the ring gear side cotter is busted on seized in the crank...but yes the overall condition us very nice. I just would prefer not to go thru the Hassel of crank set /bb removal again lol. Plus to be honest, this grand prix is super light for what it is I believe.
The bike fully assembled stock in the first pic only weight 14lbs, the other pic where it's just the frame head set and fork-only 4.1lbs!
That made me giggle when I saw that lol...
Narhay...I would love that bb upgrade. How do I confirm the threads? I guess I could figure the thread pitch with my gauge...but do I simply just count threads per inch tho?
Probably, your bike has 1 3/8" X 26 tpi on the bottom bracket. Almost all Nottingham Raleighs did, and some of the Dutch made GPs did too. Some claim that if the bike has a cottered crank that it is almost certainly 26 tpi but if cotter free, likely 24 tpi. I think that's a good rule of thumb, as they say, but we don't actually have proof that there were no GPs with cottered cranks and 24 tpi. Hard to prove that.
The best way (and only fool proof way) to tell for sure is with a thread gauge. The next best way is with something else with known threads. On your GP, the freewheel threads on to the hubs with 1 3/8" X 24 tpi. Compare those threads to your BB threads. Just match one of the cups to the hub side by side and see if they match perfectly. Note that you can often thread a thin nut of one thread onto something of the other, so be careful about trying to thread your hub (for example) into your BB. Or trying to thread the BB cup into the freewheel.
As for broken cotters, they are much softer than either the spindles or the crank arms so they can be drilled. Be careful to not break the drill bit.
I agree with everybody else -- nice and enjoyable bike.