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Old 05-15-15, 11:42 AM
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Location: New Rochelle, NY
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

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Originally Posted by mooder View Post
This is somewhat weird, it's really easier to true it at higher tension and back off after. I wonder if the process straighten the rim?....
No, the rim itself isn't changed. But when you build a wheel, there;s lots of unsettled stuff, such as the set of the elbows, and the spokes aren't taking the dead straight path hub to rim. As you work with the wheel and bring up tension, all this is constantly settling in, changing the effective spoke length, and throwing the true off slightly, so you're trying to align a moving target.

Over tightening settled everything, so now you were truing a settled wheel which was easier. (it always is).

In the future, you can make truing easier by settling everything when the wheel is at about 80% of the desired final tension. There are a number of ways to do this, and whichever you prefer is fine.

You can grab both pairs of spokes at the crosses on opposite sides and squeeze toward center. Do this hard, so you're increasing the tension in these four. Do this once or twice going around the wheel. Or use a hammer or screwdriver handle, or a piece cut from a broomstick, and put it outside the cross, and push in and across toward the hub to move the cross down and stretch the spokes. This works great and is easier on the hands, but can be less effective for settling the outside elbows than the first method.

I'll often use both methods, the hand squeeze first to make sure the outside elbows are settled, then the broomstick when the wheel is nearly finished and true. If all is good, the broomstick doesn't change anything.
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