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Old 08-18-15, 03:38 PM
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Tim_Iowa
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
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Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)

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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr View Post
You already are relying on it to keep the axle from coming out of the dropouts due to braking forces exerted by the disc brakes; having it slide up is a lesser problem.

I would advise against shimming the front axle on a disc brake-equipped bike, or anything else which keeps it from settling properly into the dropouts; the braking force tends to "eject" the axle. Many bikes have "lawyer lips" tabs to help mitigate this problem. If you shim the axle you may shim it past the tabs and negate this protection.
I agree, perfect advice. Dilberto, I can't imagine how you could get a shim to work on your fork with short dropouts and lawyer lips. An ancient steel fork with long dropouts, no "lawyer lips", and bolt-on axle? Still questionable, but possible.

However, since your fork has disc brakes, you could use a smaller diameter rim in order to gain clearance fit a wider tire. A 650b rim (aka 27.5, aka ISO 584) would give you 19 mm of extra tire clearance. You could probably fit a 38 or 42 mm tire with the smaller rim.

Is this a cheap solution? No, but it's not very difficult and totally safe. 27.5 is a popular mountain bike size now, so there are inexpensive disc-brake wheels available, and lots of tire choices.
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