View Single Post
Old 08-21-15, 02:53 PM
Senior Member
Tim_Iowa's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 1,643

Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 166 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
No offense, but that seems terribly, horribly, and completely unsafe. I'm seriously horrified, and I work in a bike shop and see lots of kludges of questionable safety.

I would never ride a bike with the wheel attached that way, and I'm honestly afraid for your safety if you if you do.

Disc wheels are notorious for ejecting the wheel under hard braking, because of the high clamping force and short lever arm. Proper wheel retention is very important, especially with discs.

1) The clamping action is less secure because there is now a tab (acting as a washer) between the textured skewer cap and the fork end. The textured skewer cap now grips the washer, which does not grip the dropout very well.

2) The tab/washer pushes the skewer ends outside of the recesses/lawyer lips on the fork end, so there is absolutely no backup retention if the skewer opens. Which, it is more likely to do because it isn't gripping the fork end as securely.

Your solution gains you a larger tire, but loses you both primary and secondary wheel retention security. Seems like a bad trade, with the risks involved. Looks like a nice tread on that tire, though. Continental Cyclocross Speed?

It's unfortunate that this bike doesn't do what you'd like (fit a wider tire), but now you've put it at risk of functioning properly at all.
Tim_Iowa is offline