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Old 09-16-15, 06:48 PM
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
dddd's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 8,116

Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.

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Ok, it all done and ready for a ride. It sure will be nice to really climb the very steep ones without my knees hitting the upper level of the handlebar, even though I don't think I was able to raise the bars higher than before at all before reaching the stem's limit line. The "ramp angle" of these (Trek) "System III" 26mmX42cm bars does seem taller at the levers as shown.

This was the third frame with a 22mm steerer ID that one of these new stems went into without effort, and those plastic caps kept grease off of things while I did the many test-fitting routines in getting this stem on board. I'm sure that I will notice the stiffer handlebar mounting versus the hollow, skinny death stem.

Noting that I did have to very slightly relieve the headset locknut ID, using a Dremel, so there was an easy sliding fit.
I used the CycloLinea padded tape from Nashbar, and this tape comes up short unless you keep overlap to about 1/4" in most places. I literally trimmed zero from the ends, except for the angle cut, and that on the first try! Not bad for $5 though.

Also the generous cable lengths now border on too short, but the pro riders used to set them up that way in many cases, probably to save weight and aero drag! I can turn the bars fully with no problem, and the brakes are working great with Jagwire's cheaper pads in back to quiet a buzzy squeal against the serrated rim sidewalls.

As always, the Cane Creek hoods save the day, enabling a good build on a tight budget, while keeping the original levers (these older ones with the much-gentler curve downward, thus a little more reach).

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