View Single Post
Old 01-03-16, 11:37 PM
  #19  
dddd
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
 
dddd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,193

Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.

Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1565 Post(s)
Liked 1,295 Times in 865 Posts
The problem that I have with many modern setups is the reduced difference in height between the tops and the drops.

The hoods will always give the most forward reach for the steepest out-of-saddle efforts, but these shallow-drop bars, when set to allow fast riding in the drops on relatively flat ground, don't give the rider much relief when the pace slows and/or when the rider is able to recover from a hard pull at the front.

If the drop is deeper, then the tops of the bar can be higher in other words.

Having a taller rest position for one's hands better prepares the rider for their next hard effort at the front.

I insist on a comfortable reach to the drops for extended periods, so my saddle comes forward to make this so, and I only use about 3" of drop from the saddle down to the bars. I try to standardize the forward reach dimension from the bb to the handlebar, and always end up with about the same fit for the varied riding that I do these days.
This one shows my fit preference well, bar angle and all:




I have to admit that I like Anatomic handlebars best, for the flattened section of the drops (set for just the right wrist angle) that let my hands better tolerate road shock at higher speeds on rough roads.
I set those with the handlebar ends horizontal, or perhaps a couple of degrees up. The steeply-sloping top ramps don't bother me because I don't ride with my hands on the ramps, just the tops, the drops and the hoods (for climbing and accelerating). The previous owner set this one up, and it feels perfect:


Last edited by dddd; 01-03-16 at 11:49 PM.
dddd is offline