RoadLight

Hi Kopsis,

Thanks, I am aware of the issue. However, I'm not sure about the way you've characterized it. I haven't seen a clutch derailleur yet but my understanding is that it improves the shifting---especially when using a wide range of gear sizes in your cassette. But I don't think that it is the reason why SRAM's 1x rear derailleur helps prevent chain drop. My understanding it that the 1x derailleur employs a new method of maintaining chain tension so the tension isn't momentarily lost when hitting hard bumps and such. Again, since I haven't seen a 1x derailleur, I haven't had a chance to see how it works, but that's my impression. Please correct me if I'm wrong about this.

I don't anticipate a problem because I'm strictly a roadie and I stick to good paved roads. I like to go fast and I like to keep a good speed throughout my 35-mile workouts. SRAM's 1x rear derailleur was designed primarily with the rigors of cyclocross in mind where things are obviously a bit bumpy in places---to understate it. :-)

My ultimate goal for my main roadbike is somewhat specialized. What I really want on the rear is a medium or long-cage SRAM Red eTap derailleur. But SRAM is only offering a short-cage at this time and that won't do for my long-term plans because I anticipate moving to a 11x32T cassette whenever I change my rear derailleur (I'm using an 11x28T now with a Force rear derailleur). Why an electronic rear derailleur on a 1x drivetrain? Answer: Because I would like multiple shift points. The most important is my aerobars where I spend most of my rides. But I also need to shift from the handlebars when I'm in traffic. I'm not aware of any way to do this with a mechanical system. I really don't want to use an electronic system---a mechanical 1x is excellent---but the desire for a second shifter at the front of my aerobars is pushing me to it.

With that in mind, my plan is to convert the crank first and wait on changing the rear until SRAM has more to offer. Plus, I have another reason pressing me to change the crank soon. I'm adding a Stages power meter and I'm changing my crank arm length. Since the Stages power meter needs to match the crank length, I need to replace my crank first. Why change the crank length? I'm getting old. I'm chasing 60 and find that my knees are more comfortable now with a 165 mm crank arm length. I've used 170 and 172.5 mm cranks most of my adult life but I can't quite keep my cadence up like I used to. It isn't a fitness issue as much as it's an "old knee" issue.

So I'll convert to a 1x without touching the rear this year. And I'll add the power meter. Then I hope to replace the rear next year if SRAM has a suitable eTap rear derailleur by then.

Kind regards, RoadLight