Old 05-23-16, 11:07 AM
  #7  
The Golden Boy 
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 12,681

Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT

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Originally Posted by CharmPeddler View Post

The Golden Boy - Thanks for telling me my bike is worthless. HAHA JUST KIDDING! From the research I did before purchasing this is pretty much what I was thinking too. Thanks for the ChroMo suggestion! Thats exactly the kind of thing I was hoping to learn.
Sorry man... The 1960s/70s Sports Tourer was a top level Schwinn. The 1981 version was a much lower level bike.

IMO- The quality of the frame of your bike is the one thing that you really can't change. Any other parts can be swapped out- so better or cheaper parts can be substituted at any time. A 1010, 1020, Hi Carbon, High Tensile, Hi-Ten frame are all phrases for a lower grade of steel, it's not as strong, so thicker tubes are needed to be strong enough to be used as a bike. Hi-Ten bikes can ride very nicely- they'll just be heavier and generally less responsive than something of a more premium tubeset.

4130/CroMo frames are really a great starting point for high quality steel frames. From there you can dress the bike up with as fancy of parts as you think is applicable. But putting fancy parts on a Hi-Ten frame... if you think you'll appreciate the fancy parts- you'd also be appreciating a nicer frame. IMO and all that.

Again, Hi-Ten frames can ride really, really nicely. I had a Schwinn Suburban- once it got going, that bike was as smooth as my Trek 620 on level ground.
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