Old 02-14-17, 11:03 AM
A Roadie Forever
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 8,645

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

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Originally Posted by rmfnla View Post
My measurement system is I mount the brakes and levers I want to use and then try them.

By riding.

If they stop to my satisfaction then the measurements are good, if not, they are bad.

Haven't made any mistakes yet...
Not at all scientific, but kind of fun in this context: I have a bike set up with two different handlebar, stem, levers and calipers. A fix gear I use for climbing (with bigger cogs but still usually very high gears making for long stretches out of the saddle on the hoods. One HB set is for flat ground; road bars, regular Tektro levers and SunTour Superbe sidepulls. Very good stopping like a good '80s racing bike. The other is a wide, deep pair of track bars with V-brake Tektros and Shimano dual pivots. I ride this bike in the drops most of the time except climbing. The brakes take a bigger grab to stop but they do stop very well and I skid/lock up the rear far less. I can descend roads I do not know with far more confidence that I can shut down the fix gear I am riding at 200 RPM to make that corner that is steeper and tighter than I expected.

I like the second setup sop much I duplicated it on my good bike. Yes I do pay some penalty braking hard on the hoods but I just see that as a reminder to ride as the coaches taught us 40 years ago - when the riding gets dicey, ride the drops.

In exchange, the huge plus - wonderful handles when out of the saddle!

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