WizardOfBoz

Parallel and concentric threads are not difficult. It's machine shop 101, basic lathe work. The bearing seats should be made very concentric to the hub rims, the same setup could be used to "single point" the freewheel threads. Then the bearings could be installed and used to turn the hub as you drill and countersink the spoke holes. In a well-make hub, everything should be very concentric and parallel with the hub axis.

Regarding the axle, it may well be bent but that cannot be what's causing your wobble. The axle doesn't move. The bearing cones are on the axle that doesn't move. A bent axle could result in your wheel not lining up between your brake pads, or between your chainstays. But it won't cause wheel wobble.

Spin the wheel with the crank so that the freewheel is not "clicking" and is rotating with the hub. Is the hub rim rotating evenly? With the chain on the small sprocket, can you see if the freewheel is wobbling? If the hub itself is wobbling, then whoever made it didn't pass machine shop 101, and you have bearing seats that are not concentric with the hub rims and (probably) the freewheel threads. And you need a new hub. If the hob does not wobble when you use your crank to rotate the wheel (that is, the freewheel isn't clicking), but you see the freewheel wobble (easiest to check viewing the big cog, with a popsicle stick or something clipped to the seat stay) then the freewheels bearings, threads, and/or cog seat was poorly made, or the hub might have its threads not parallel and concentric with the hub axis. New freewheel for the former issue, new hub for the latter.

The technology to ensure concentricity was available in the 1890s, and Sir Joseph Whitworth (namesake of Whitworth screw form, inventor of the surface plate) had measuring devices that resolved down to something like 5 millions of an inch back in 1840 or so. So mfrs had the means to check concentricity.

But it ain't the axle.