View Single Post
Old 01-01-06, 12:57 AM
  #7  
Ronin
fitter, happier
 
Ronin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Lawrence
Posts: 200

Bikes: I have more bikes than fingers. So I can't count em

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Here is my advice. I work in an auto service dept and we also have a body shop. Catalized two part paint is the way to go. You can save $$$ by prepping yourself. Expect to pay $30 if you are flexable on the color. Example,the body shop is painting a truck blue and you are ok with that blue. SHazam! your in luck.
Wanna do it yourself here goes:
Never never never strip the factory paint unless you have rust or it's peeling. No primer or base coat will ever provide better adheasion than the factory paint. Even when repainting a car we never strip the factory paint unless it's cracked,peeling etc. Use a green Scothbrite pad to scuff the original finish to provide "tooth" for the new paint to adhear to. Use the scothbrite to blend the pitted places into a seemless transition to the undamaged paint. If you have deeper pits or gouges use automotive glaziing putty. You can get it at Walmart or any auto parts store for 5 bucks a tube. Once dry use the scothbrite again to blend it in. A rule of thumb is that any blemisg that will catch a fingernail will show in your finish coat. Get your paint in the automotive scsection instead of the hardware section of your local store. Duplicolor makes automotive touch up piant in spray cans. The more common colors come in a full size spray can.Be carefull about how long you wait to apply additional coates of paint some paints require the first coat to still be tacky when the second coat is applied. You do not need to prime(and should not) if you still have the factory base coat. Use several light coats(4-6) The final coat should be heavier than the first. After drying you can apply clear coat. Make sure that your clear coat is the same brand as the paint that you used.Some paints are not compatible and will wrinkle your paint. After the clear coat has dried you can use rubbing compound followed by polish folowed by wax.This will smooth out those little bits of dust that get into the paint before it's dry. If you take your time and do the prep job well nobody will be able to tell your bike was a repaint.
Ronin is offline