Thread: New bike advice
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Old 10-20-17, 06:39 AM
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Maelochs
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE

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For those who didn't know (like i didn't know) the Trek X3 is an Al-frame, CF-fork flat-bar commuter weighing in at 25 pounds (claimed, I'd bet 27 for the X-Large model) with rack mounts and a 48/36/26 triple mated to a nine-speed MTB cassette. (https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b.../1327010-2017/)

Mr. Ms. Bluherring, I would go to various bike manufacturer websites and look for comparable machinery.

Here in the U.S. I'd start with what we call the Big Four (trek, Specialized, Cannondale, and Giant) to see the "industry standard" and then some of the mail-order/smaller brand sites, where companies with less name appeal often sell almost identically-equipped bikes for a little less money. The big names usually charge a little more just because they are the big names.

Also ... I don't know any of the local brands or outlets, but once you see what components are generally offered at which price points, you can look around and shop for bargains that might be regional or specific to regional retailers. (For instance, there is a U.S. sporting good chain store, REI, which sells its own line of bikes (generic frame, same parts as everyone else) which for a rider like you would be just as good but significantly cheaper than the big-name brands.

As for specifics: the difference in derailleurs/running gear is so marginal as to be laughable. The CF fork probably would help a good bit to smooth out the ride .... if you were riding a lot of miles.An aluminum fork will ride a little harsher (transmit more vibration and impact to your hands) but if you are riding two-to-ten miles at a time ... probably not a big deal.

For myself ... steel or carbon fork is a must, because the Al fork will rattle me too much ... but if I was just doing two miles ... that would be a tough call for that money. Question is, how much more might you want to ride?

Also ... for the mileage you do, if you maintain your bike, it should last a lifetime, no exaggeration. I don't know what "gave out" on your old bike ... aI assume since it was a department store bike it had the cheapest of everything and none of it was replaceable ... but a decently maintained bicycle, even one which gets a Lot more use than you give it, should just ... last.

If you get a new bike, be sure to stay on top of lubrication and adjustment. Other than cables and brake shoes, nothing should wear out ... the chain will, but is probably good for 3000 miles. The Cassette will, but is probably good for 10,000 miles. The chain rings will, but will last 15,000-20,000 mils, same with the bottom bracket. Hubs might wear out, particularly if you lived somewhere where lousy weather is the norm (not mentioning the UK, but glancing in that direction. ) ... replaceable cartridge bearing for the win.

Don't spend a penny which isn't actually buying you something important ... but don't try to go really cheap. If you ride 50 miles a week and take even minimal care of the bike, you should be passing it on to your grandkids ... so an extra 150 amortized over 20-30 years is a tiny investment. Get a solid bike which will do everything you want and keep it forever.

If you do some research and come up with some specific possibilities ... you can post links with a little creativity .... (https:000//www.bikeforums.net/000general-cycling-discussion/1125577-new-bike-advice.html or something.) Then people can be more helpful.
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