Originally Posted by SethAZ

Yeah, no doubt. I have a 32.5-mile route I do a lot that has a total altitude change of something like 200 or 300 feet. I don't treat cassettes as a final solution sort of problem. I kept both the 11-32t cassette (brand new, maybe 30 miles on it) and the brand new chain that the bike came with, which was the appropriate length with that cassette, off to the side, and the next time I plan for a ride up into the mountains I'll just swap the cassette and chain back over and use them. When I put the 12-25t on I used a new chain and sized it appropriate so it fit just right with that smaller cassette. Swapping a cassette and chain on the bike will take me something like 5 or 10 minutes, tops. Having the right tools and a proper work stand makes it trivial.

As for losing the 11t cog, I did that on purpose. I essentially spin out at around 100-105rpm. My legs are just too old and heavier to get up much beyond that. With the 13t high gear I used on my 9-speed bike I would spin out at around 30-31mph. When I swapped cassettes on the new bike I gave myself one higher gear than I used to have by keeping the 12t, but gave up the 11t because it's simply not needed. Having the 11t would keep me from spinning out until what, 33 or 34mph? If I'm on a descent that's steep enough that I'm spinning out my 12t I just assume the "escape velocity" tuck and enjoy the ride.

By giving up the 11t I gave myself an extra close shift further down the cassette in the ranges where I typically spend most of my time. With the 12-25t 11-speed cassette I now have 1-tooth shifts actually further down the speed ranges than I actually need them, which is why I'm thinking of picking up a 12-27 or 12-28. At the bottom of my 1-tooth shifts a shift up or down will only change my cadence by like 4 rpm, which is actually tighter than it needs to be.

I guess the point is that it pays dividends to learn about the gears, the ratios, pay attention to the cadence changes between shifts, etc. and learn what cogs will support the riding a person actually does. I understand why something like an 11-32t looks great on paper, because it covers pretty much everyone, but the problem is it doesn't do it well. When my new bike showed up and I rode the 11-32t I had 2-tooth shifts that were throwing my cadence off by like 15+ rpm down in speed ranges I actually found myself fairly often. Meanwhile the 32t and 11t were never used. It simply wasn't a good cassette for me in my riding environment. So far the climbs available to me locally I've handled with the 34/25 combo and kept my cadence at least in the 70s. Going to the 12-28t would probably make it a little easier to never get out of the 80s.