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Old 01-06-18, 12:44 AM
  #34  
cpstwoart
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Bikes: 2016 Giant TCR Advanced SL, 2015 Specialized Langster Pro, 1990's Battaglin, 2015 TCR SLR

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Originally Posted by carpediemracing
There's a saying that if you don't see the sucker at the card table then the sucker is you. Just be careful with what you're checking off as "okay" because overconfidence can get you into situations that you simply cannot get out of (in terms of crashing in bike races). I consider myself very risk averse, I only do crits because I can't climb or time trial, and I've sat up in races just because I didn't feel right about things. I'll also ride through a field through little holes because on that day, at that moment, things felt okay.

Bike throws everyone can work on, literally every time you get on the bike. Tool around in the parking lot before ride or race, do 5 or 10 or 30 bike throws. It should be second nature. Even pros don't know how to bike throw, and I've seen some humdinger where a pro loses a huge race because they're incapable of throwing the bike correctly. So work on it. Even on the trainer you can get the mechanics down without worrying about falling over. Basically if you end up sitting on the rear tire you're doing okay. If your butt isn't waaaaaaay behind your seat you're doing it wrong.

For aero.. I consider my Stinger 75mm front and 90mm rear to be perfectly usable to 45 mph speeds or 25 mph winds (although I've used them in slightly heavier winds only because I forgot my non-aero wheels at home - beach-side crit with heavy gusting winds). I got them used for a total of maybe $1000, including excellent condition tires. I used the tires that came with the wheels for I think two seasons, maybe three for the front tire.

I got the 75/90mm set up to replace my 60mm set up because I wanted to max out speed. Tall wheels are incredible in cross-tailwinds (I don't think anyone ever tests in those conditions so there isn't really any data I know of). It's amazing how easy it is to sit in and shelter in certain conditions, and how easy it is to move up also, even when the field is moving fast. It's not just about the final sprint (the only thing I can do well), it's about everything leading up to the final sprint.

Using heavier or less aero wheels, my limited aerobic capacity may not even let me finish the race. I typically avg 160-200w for a race, and at 200w avg I can barely sprint. 160w is better, 170-180w is realistically how hard I need to work to finish a race and sprint. To put in perspective, at the Cat 2 Tour of Somerville I was at 175w avg and 27.5 mph avg speed until the backstretch of the final lap. The final half lap I did 280w and only 24 mph (caught behind the first of 3? crashes that lap). I probably should have used a bit more gas just before the bell to move up but I gambled on moving up on the backstretch and lost.

Sitting in a field still taxes a wheel's aero. If you have 48 spoke wheels you'll feel it, ditto a less aero wheel. Sometimes you don't have a choice with shelter or sitting in, like if you're accelerating out of a turn and everyone's hitting 30-32 mph before the gaps close, or if the field is strung out single file at 30 mph. You want a fast and light wheel.

I'd go find some used brand name wheels. Reynolds (probably best value but may not be most aero except latest versions), HED (to me usually a good value, plus they have the mid-height 75mm front, my 2010 Stinger 6s are fantastic), Zipp (I think they're more expensive and also nothing between the 404 and 808, i.e. 58mm and 88mm). Figure $1000 a pair should set you up, maybe less if you get a friend discount, like a loaner set of wheels from a teammate or whatever.
DUDE! You rock! Thank you so much for putting so much time into helping me. I really appreciate the respectful advice.
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